John Edward Cooper’s Notes

DAY 7 - CASSIS


Boats in Cassis

Today we will drive to the Mediterranean Coast, the pretty fishing village of Cassis. Here we will take a short boat trip to explore the Calanques, or inlets.

Later, we have a short stop in Marseille before our return to the hotel This evening if free for you to enjoy as you wish.

Janet reported: “A restless and uncomfortable night with not enough sleep. At least I didn’t feel sick! Up, 6.50am.” She vacated the bathroom at 7.10am, so I then I got up, showered, etc. We went down for breakfast, back up to our room to pick up what we needed for the day, then out to the pick-up point across Boulevard Jean Jaurès at 8.50am. It was raining; this continued on and off today, mostly “on”, quite heavily at times.


Starting point and places visited today

I wrote in my notebook:

11:30 Depart
tomorrow

On the way, then, Chris Brown revised the time we’d depart tomorrow, from the “ca.11.45am” that he told us yesterday evening, to 11.30am. “We headed into the mountains,” Janet wrote: “beautiful scenery.” My notes say, “Sainte-Baume mountains”.


Sunday 21 May 2023 09:14:34
On the way to Cap Canaille


Sunday 21 May 2023 09:24:30
On the way to Cap Canaille

My notes also say “La Route des Crêtes, ca.9.30am”, which is the road leading to the viewpoint on Cap Canaille (“the tallest cliff in France”, we were told). The photos illustrate what Janet wrote: “A bit misty, but still lovely.”


Sunday 21 May 2023 09:34:38
On the way to Cap Canaille


Sunday 21 May 2023 09:42:02
Views from Cap Canaille


Sunday 21 May 2023 09:42:58
Views from Cap Canaille over Cassis


Sunday 21 May 2023 09:43:38
Views from Cap Canaille over Cassis


Sunday 21 May 2023 09:44:18
Views from Cap Canaille over Cassis


Sunday 21 May 2023 09:44:44
Views from Cap Canaille over Cassis


Sunday 21 May 2023 09:45:08
Views from Cap Canaille


Sunday 21 May 2023 09:46:12
Views from Cap Canaille over Cassis

On arrival in the outskirts of Cassis, we boarded what Chris Brown had yesterday termed a “Noddy train”, which took us to the south end of Avenue Alphonse Daudet, from where he led the group on foot to the Port of Cassis.


Sunday 21 May 2023 10:26:26
Aboard “le Petit Train Touristique de Cassis”


Sunday 21 May 2023 10:37:40
Looking back at “le Petit Train Touristique de Cassis”

Our approach to the Port was down steps to its northernmost corner; then we went south-east along Quai des Baux; then there was a right turn south-west along Quai Saint-Pierre, where the excursion boats were moored.


Sunday 21 May 2023 10:42:44
Proceeding to the Port of Cassis


Sunday 21 May 2023 10:49:38
Port of Cassis

“[It was] still raining,” Janet wrote. “We boarded a very wet boat. I put my big plastic mac on to sit down. Perfect. [John] went out front. However, we had to decamp to another boat, which was, at least, drier. [John] went outside again — where he stayed for the whole voyage. We had a trip around the Calanques (inlets).”
 Yes, we’d already boarded the first boat (Chris Brown can be seen leading the way on the photo, below), when it was decided that we should transfer ourselves to the adjacent one. I didn’t fancy being on “The Glass Eye” anyway! (“L’Œil de Verre” is, in fact, the name of one of the Calanques, one farther west, though, than the ones we visited.) The captain handed out copies of a large, 12-page, illustrated information book. 



I sat in the open area at the bow. It was still raining, but I had a cagoule with me — and a hanky, with which to wipe the camera lens from time to time.


Sunday 21 May 2023 10:53:06
L’Oeil de Verre, which we initially boarded


Sunday 21 May 2023 11:10:24
The adjacent vessel, Sirocco, which we boarded afterwards


Sunday 21 May 2023 11:13:56
About to leave the Port of Cassis


Sunday 21 May 2023 11:15:10
Just after leaving the Port of Cassis


Sunday 21 May 2023 11:16:12
Views eastwards towards Cap Canaille


Sunday 21 May 2023 11:16:48
Views eastwards towards Cap Canaille

Of some 26 calanques in the Parc national des Calanques between Cassis and Marseille, we visited but the first four.


Sunday 21 May 2023 11:23:14
Approaching Calanque de Port-Miou


Sunday 21 May 2023 11:24:12
Calanque de Port Miou


Sunday 21 May 2023 11:24:42
Calanque de Port Miou


Sunday 21 May 2023 11:25:52
Calanque de Port Miou


Sunday 21 May 2023 11:26:16
Calanque de Port Miou


Sunday 21 May 2023 11:31:46
Approaching Calanque de Port Pin


Sunday 21 May 2023 11:34:50
Calanque de Port Pin


Sunday 21 May 2023 11:36:00
Calanque de Port Pin


Sunday 21 May 2023 11:36:22
Precarious foothold for the Aleppo pine tree


Sunday 21 May 2023 11:38:30
Yachts on the open sea


Sunday 21 May 2023 11:39:36
Rounding the Pointe d’En-vau


Sunday 21 May 2023 11:39:50
Calanque d’En-vau


Sunday 21 May 2023 11:40:52
Calanque d’En-vau


Sunday 21 May 2023 11:41:06
Calanque d’En-vau


Sunday 21 May 2023 11:42:16
Calanque d’En-vau


Sunday 21 May 2023 11:43:14
Calanque d’En-vau


Sunday 21 May 2023 11:52:04
Calanque de l’Oule


Sunday 21 May 2023 11:53:00
Calanque de l’Oule


Sunday 21 May 2023 11:54:04
Calanque de l’Oule


Sunday 21 May 2023 11:54:54
Calanque de l’Oule

Then there was free time. I’d written in my notebook, “Rendezvous, 2pm”; but evidence, e.g. Janet’s journal entry and “14:14:42” (below), suggests that it was 2.15pm. On arrival back at Quai Saint-Pierre, Janet and I didn’t turn left back along Quai des Baux; we carried on straight ahead into Avenue Victor Hugo, where on the left some 50-odd yards farther up, we went in Bar de la Fontaine.


Sunday 21 May 2023 12:17:50
Avenue Victor Hugo, Cassis

“The rain had finally stopped: yes! It was quite warm too,” Janet wrote. “We found a café/bar where [John] had steak, chips and salad, and two beers and a coffee. I had a big mixed salad, some bread, a Coke Zero, and a coffee. We both enjoyed the meal.” Mine only lacked some English mustard for the steak and some vinegar for the chips. Janet also had some green olives with hers. She tossed over onto my plate the sliced onion that was in her salad. The “beer” was Affligem Belgian abbey-style white beer.


Sunday 21 May 2023 12:39:06
Lunch at Bar de la Fontaine, 31 Avenue Victor Hugo, Cassis


Sunday 21 May 2023 13:14:46
Bar de la Fontaine, 31 Avenue Victor Hugo, Cassis


Sunday 21 May 2023 13:31:46
Bar de la Fontaine, 31 Avenue Victor Hugo, Cassis

Just beyond Bar de la Fontaine was a square, with the fountain which gave the bar its name; and just to the right of this we found a small park.


Sunday 21 May 2023 13:39:34
Jardin Public de Cassis: war memorial


Sunday 21 May 2023 13:40:18
Jardin Public de Cassis


Sunday 21 May 2023 13:42:14
Jardin Public de Cassis: bird of paradise flower (Strelizia)

Janet wrote: “We wandered to a little park with a pond and a family of baby ducks in different stages of development. So cute! We walked around, then had a pee, and headed off to our pick-up point at 2.15pm.” We retraced our steps down Avenue Victor Hugo, turned right and went along Quai des Baux, went back up the steps at the end of it, and found our way back to the end (or “start”, in this context) of Avenue Alphonse Daudet to await the “Noddy” train.


Sunday 21 May 2023 13:53:00
At the end of Quai des Baux, Cassis: looking back


Sunday 21 May 2023 13:53:20
At the end of Quai des Baux, Cassis: looking ahead, left


Sunday 21 May 2023 13:53:32
At the end of Quai des Baux, Cassis: looking ahead, right


Sunday 21 May 2023 14:14:42
Looking north along Avenue Alphonse Daudet, Cassis: the approaching “Petit Train Touristique de Cassis”


Sunday 21 May 2023 14:17:02
Aboard “le Petit Train Touristique de Cassis”

Having boarded the coach, we set off for Marseille, along the D559.


Sunday 21 May 2023 14:43:02
En route to Marseille

Within the built-up area of the city, there was a left turn taking us to the coast, where, on the roundabout as we turned right along the coast road, Chris pointed out a copy of Michelangelo’s statue of David.


Sunday 21 May 2023 15:10:52
Statue of David at the start of Promenade Georges Pompidou, Marseille


Sunday 21 May 2023 15:15:16
Proceeding into Marseille: (foreground:) Plage du Prophète; (background:) Pointe d’Endoume

He also pointed out the “Counterfeit Money Bridge” ahead, as we approached it, and the Île d’If, featured in Dumas’ adventure novel The Count of Monte Cristo, away to the left.


Sunday 21 May 2023 15:18:04
Proceeding into Marseille: Pont de la Fausse Monnaie (“Counterfeit Money Bridge”)


Sunday 21 May 2023 15:20:38
Proceeding into Marseille: Basilica of Our Lady of the Guard (“la Bonne Mère”)


Sunday 21 May 2023 15:20:54
Proceeding into Marseille: “To the Heroes of the Army of the East and of Distant Lands”

We skirted around the Old Port, before coming to a halt in front of the Hôtel de Ville. I wrote in my notebook, “Marseille 4.20pm”, as the time we had to return to the coach, i.e. just shy of 40 minutes after our arrival.


Sunday 21 May 2023 15:27:04
Skirting the Old Port of Marseille eastwards along Quai de Rive Neuve on its south side


Sunday 21 May 2023 15:40:38
Views from Quai du Port on the north side of the Old Port of Marseille: (south-west:) Fort Saint-Nicolas


Sunday 21 May 2023 15:41:32
Views from Quai du Port on the north side of the Old Port of Marseille: (south:) “la Bonne Mère”


Sunday 21 May 2023 15:42:34
Hôtel de Ville, Quai du Port, Marseille

I took the three photos, above, then we crossed the road on the west side of the Hôtel de Ville, and went to a bar in the building on the opposite corner — not the first one Le Mistral, but the one adjacent to it La Cuisine au Buerre. Janet had a 500ml bottle of Coke Zero and I a 500ml glass of Hoegaarden. …


Sunday 21 May 2023 15:48:04
Refreshments at La Cuisine au Buerre, 74 Quai du Port, Marseille

“We were back on the coach at 4.20pm and headed off back to Aix-en-Provence.”


Sunday 21 May 2023 16:24:56
Passing the Cathedral of St. Mary Major, Marseille


Sunday 21 May 2023 16:36:42
Hollywood-style letters “Marseille” on the northern outskirts of the city, seen from the A55 on the way back to Aix-en-Provence

“We arrived just before 5pm,” Janet wrote. “We ‘sorted ourselves out’, then went out to eat. We were both a bit weary. It took us a while to find La Fontaine and what a good choice it was. It was smart (comfy chairs), clean, very cosy and inviting (lights scattered about), and we were welcomed.”
 Rather a coincidence that we had lunch and dinner at establishments with the same name! As on Friday, from Place des Cardeurs we found ourselves going southwards along Rue de la Verrerie; but, instead of going to Il Tavolino, we went to La Fontaine opposite. Between the two, there is a fountain.
 “[John] had a lamb dish with a sausage, couscous with chick peas, a dip plus a little dish of Ras el Hanout or harissa, which [John] found too hot. He made a game try: ate all the meat and veg’s but couldn’t manage all the chickpeas. He had some Corsican wine, then a coffee. I had a huge Caesar salad (without the dressing). There was a big breaded chicken escalope, a warm boiled egg (protein), mixed leaves, tomatoes, cucumber, peppers, delicious black olives, croutons, and Parmesan shavings. I ate all the olives and tomatoes and a fair bit of the chicken. It was excellent. We both enjoyed. I had a Coke Zero and a coffee. This was one of the cheapest meals we’d had — and one of the best. In my case, the best. Fantastic. We staggered back to the hotel, both very full. It had been another good day.”
 In fact, “lamb” and “sausage” were not separate: it was an “agneau-merguez”.[i] Our staggering back to the hotel was not along the most direct route, for we went past the Hôtel de Ville before finding ourselves heading east along Rue du Bon Pasteur to the rear entrance of the hotel.

[i] According to Wikipedia:

Merguez is a red, spicy mutton- or beef-based fresh sausage in Maghrebi cuisine. In France, merguez became popular in the 1960s and 1970s, as Algerian immigrants and the pieds-noirs of Algeria settled in the country and opened small shops and restaurants that served traditional dishes like merguez.

Sunday 21 May 2023 18:21:02
La Fontaine, 40 Rue de la Verrerie, Aix-en-Provence


Sunday 21 May 2023 18:23:06
La Fontaine, 40 Rue de la Verrerie, Aix-en-Provence
 “CousCous maison
 Agneau-merguez”


Sunday 21 May 2023 18:44:54
 “CousCous maison
 Agneau-merguez”




La Fontaine, 40 Rue de la Verrerie, Aix-en-Provence


Sunday 21 May 2023 19:24:16
La Fontaine, 40 Rue de la Verrerie, Aix-en-Provence


Sunday 21 May 2023 19:24:34
La Fontaine, 40 Rue de la Verrerie, Aix-en-Provence


Sunday 21 May 2023 19:27:02
Heading north along Rue du Maréchal Foch towards Place de l’Hôtel de Ville, Aix-en-Provence


Sunday 21 May 2023 19:35:26
Approaching Hôtel Aquabella from Rue du Bon Pasteur, Aix-en-Provence


Sunday 21 May 2023 19:43:54
The always-aloof hotel cat, seen from our hotel room


Sunday 21 May 2023 19:44:24
The grounds of Hôtel Aquabella and Rue des Étuves, Aix-en-Provence


Sunday 21 May 2023 19:44:48
“Tourreluque” in the north-east corner of the Hôtel Aquabella grounds, Aix-en-Provence

Janet concluded today’s journal entry thus: “I love Aix-en-Provence: all the unexpected little squares with fountains, narrow cobbled streets, and beautiful buildings. A lot of it pedestrianised. So easy to get around too. One of the best places we’ve stayed. I said I didn’t want to go home. I’d had such a good time. A marvellous holiday. Back in the hotel I did my teeth, had a shower, and updated this [journal]. I was in bed not long after 9pm. Hope I sleep better tonight. I feel a lot more comfortable. I’m so tired. [John] read for a bit. Home tomorrow and ‘the grind’. Boo, hoo!”
 I transferred 75 photos from the camera’s SD card to the WD Elements HDD (19:54–19:55), then copied the files to “Pictures” on the computer (19:57). … … Solitaire (20:24–20:44): lost 4; won 2; lost 1. Shut down the computer. Read some of The Jewel in the Skull. Shaved. Read more of The Jewel in the Skull (21:25–21:53), before getting ready for bed. Janet was already in bed.

[Monday 22 May 2023]