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Tuesday 27 August 2013

[Monday 26 August 2013]

07:00–19:00 Livorno

Day 239 Tuesday 27 August Ezekiel 1-4

This was the Cruise News for today:









And this was the Explore Ashore:





Had orange juice and Rice Krispies, bacon, sausage and baked beans, and coffee — and I can’t remember if anything else.… We left the ship a little after 8am, and the participants in the various trips were pointed to their respective coaches. The tour operator was “Trumpy Tours”, our coach was №8, and so they gave us each a bright little sticker to wear, with “8 Trumpy Tours” printed on it. Fabrizio, our guide, issued us also each with a map of Pisa — not that we had much free time in which to get lost.


Tuesday 27 August 2013 — 08:11:46
Going ashore at Livorno


Tuesday 27 August 2013 — 08:12:00


Tuesday 27 August 2013 — 08:14:38
Boarding the coach for the “Leaning Tower” tour


Tuesday 27 August 2013 — 08:40:00
Road lined with umbrella pines


Tuesday 27 August 2013 — 08:41:50
U.S. military base Camp Darby


Tuesday 27 August 2013 — 08:48:48
Church of St. Peter


Tuesday 27 August 2013 — 08:49:08
Church of St. Peter

We arrived at a coach park quite a distance from the city wall, so Fabrizio led the party down a road, across a railway, across a main road at a traffic-light controlled crossing, then with a few turns into a piazza with a city wall on the left — square crenellation, not swallowtail, we noticed — and through a triple archway into the Piazza del Duomo. Janet and I did not fail to be disgusted with the disrespect shown by semi-naked people in our party and elsewhere, going in this religious site without covering up. Fabrizio took us in the Baptistery first and the Duomo second, pointing out features and facts of interest from time to time, some of which have found their way into the captions of the photos below. The Baptistery had an acoustic rather like the dome of St. Paul’s Cathedral in London, and indeed a man sang in turn notes of a chord, the echoes of which harmonised with themselves.


Tuesday 27 August 2013 — 09:19:26
Approaching the city wall of Pisa


Tuesday 27 August 2013 — 09:22:02
Pisa city wall


Tuesday 27 August 2013 — 09:22:44
Memorial Cemetery, Baptistery, Duomo, and Leaning Tower


Tuesday 27 August 2013 — 09:26:38
Baptistery


Tuesday 27 August 2013 — 09:26:58
Baptistery


Tuesday 27 August 2013 — 09:27:22
Fabrizio, our Trumpy Tours guide


Tuesday 27 August 2013 — 09:29:22
Baptistery


Tuesday 27 August 2013 — 09:30:18
Baptistery


Tuesday 27 August 2013 — 09:31:32
Baptistery: self-duet


Tuesday 27 August 2013 — 09:32:00
Baptistery


Tuesday 27 August 2013 — 09:32:40
Baptistery


Tuesday 27 August 2013 — 09:33:06
Baptistery


Tuesday 27 August 2013 — 09:33:22
Baptistery


Tuesday 27 August 2013 — 09:33:56
Baptistery


Tuesday 27 August 2013 — 09:37:32
Baptistery


Tuesday 27 August 2013 — 09:39:18
Baptistery


Tuesday 27 August 2013 — 09:39:46
Duomo


Tuesday 27 August 2013 — 09:39:56
Memorial Cemetery


Tuesday 27 August 2013 — 09:42:12
City wall


Tuesday 27 August 2013 — 09:42:12
City wall: detail


Tuesday 27 August 2013 — 09:47:16
Duomo


Tuesday 27 August 2013 — 09:50:34
Duomo: The devil’s claw-marks


Tuesday 27 August 2013 — 09:52:34
Duomo: The devil’s claw-marks


Tuesday 27 August 2013 — 10:01:02
Duomo


Tuesday 27 August 2013 — 10:01:36
Duomo


Tuesday 27 August 2013 — 10:01:46
Duomo


Tuesday 27 August 2013 — 10:02:06
Duomo


Tuesday 27 August 2013 — 10:05:34
Duomo


Tuesday 27 August 2013 — 10:11:02
Duomo


Tuesday 27 August 2013 — 10:11:18
Duomo: Medici ceiling


Tuesday 27 August 2013 — 10:12:24
Duomo


Tuesday 27 August 2013 — 10:16:28
Duomo: pulpit


Tuesday 27 August 2013 — 10:16:44
Duomo: Galileo’s lamp (not the original one)


Tuesday 27 August 2013 — 10:17:42
Duomo: pulpit


Tuesday 27 August 2013 — 10:18:12
Duomo: Hercules, subjected to Christ


Tuesday 27 August 2013 — 10:20:28
Duomo: pulpit


Tuesday 27 August 2013 — 10:22:26
Duomo: sarcophagus in the south transept


Tuesday 27 August 2013 — 10:22:48
Duomo: south transept


Tuesday 27 August 2013 — 10:26:32
Duomo: north transept


Tuesday 27 August 2013 — 10:29:40
Duomo: Medici emblem on the ceiling

We were given an hour’s free time and told to meet up under the arches in the wall at 11.30am. I snapped the Leaning Tower, then we went to a nearby bar/restaurant for a drink and a sit down in the shade.


Tuesday 27 August 2013 — 10:39:02
Leaning Tower


Tuesday 27 August 2013 — 10:44:30


Tuesday 27 August 2013 — 10:46:24
Leaning Tower


Tuesday 27 August 2013 — 10:49:42
Refreshments nearby


Tuesday 27 August 2013 — 10:51:04
Refreshments nearby


Tuesday 27 August 2013 — 11:19:46
Last views before heading back


Tuesday 27 August 2013 — 11:19:58
Last views before heading back

Lining the road to the wall were many shops and stalls, so I bought a couple of postcards at one.


Tuesday 27 August 2013 — 11:20:38
Heading back


Tuesday 27 August 2013 — 11:23:32
Very last view


Tuesday 27 August 2013 — 11:38:36
Walking back to the coach


Tuesday 27 August 2013 — 12:11:54
U.S. military base Camp Darby

We were back at the Port of Livorno perhaps a little after 12.30pm. We boarded the ship, went to the cabin, then for lunch, then back to the cabin, then left the ship again to board the shuttle bus to the town centre, all in less than an hour. The shuttle cost us €5 each for a return journey.


Tuesday 27 August 2013 — 13:26:00
Shuttle bus from Livorno port to town centre

We wandered around, a bit aimlessly, in the sun and the heat.


Tuesday 27 August 2013 — 13:50:50
Livorno: Duomo seen from Piazza Grande


Tuesday 27 August 2013 — 13:50:50
Livorno: Duomo seen from Piazza Grande — detail

We were at the location in the photo below, near the Fortezza Nuova (which I guessed meant “new fortress”. We fancied a boat trip of the canals, and the Explore Ashore promised, “You can pick up the boats under Piazza Del [sic] Republica [sic], near the New Fortress”; but the map on the other side didn’t show any “Piazza Del Republica”, try as I might to find it. I didn’t realise that the blank space just below and to the right of “Fortezza Nuova” was a bit of it. I got mad as hell at the inadequate information. A German family were strolling by, and they wondered where the boat trips were to be had. I mentioned this “Piazza Del Republica” that we couldn’t find.


Tuesday 27 August 2013 — 14:08:32
Livorno: Fosso Reale and Fortezza Nuova


Tuesday 27 August 2013 — 14:10:04
Livorno: Fosso Reale and Fortezza Nuova

We went back to where the shuttle had dropped us off — Piazza del Municipio — and Janet noticed that there was a tourist information centre in one of the buildings, and we were able to book a boat trip in there. We had to go back there for the guide to meet us a little before 3.45pm. We didn’t fancy any of the bars that presented themselves to us in that vicinity, so we went in the McDonald’s for a drink. Janet had Coke Light and I Fanta, and we made them last as long as we could.…


Tuesday 27 August 2013 — 14:39:54
Livorno: McDonald’s


Tuesday 27 August 2013 — 15:24:34
Livorno: Piazza del Municipio

And so we went back to the information office, and waited till the guide showed up. She led the way to the canal where the boat was moored. In the party were the Germans we’d seen earlier. At the time I hadn’t much idea of where the trip went, or who the statues that popped up from time to time were of — the guide did explain things in Italian and English, but her accent wasn’t always clear — but I’ve tracked all the locations and identities since then. I didn’t realise, e.g., that the long tunnel we entered just after setting out was, in fact, under the elusive “Piazza della Repubblica”!




Tuesday 27 August 2013 — 15:51:14
About to pass under the Piazza della Repubblica


Tuesday 27 August 2013 — 15:51:30
Passing under the Piazza della Repubblica


Tuesday 27 August 2013 — 15:53:20
Beyond the Piazza della Repubblica, about to turn right (south-east to south-west)


Tuesday 27 August 2013 — 15:53:54
Looking back: monument to Ferdinando III on the Piazza della Repubblica


Tuesday 27 August 2013 — 15:54:42
Bridge carrying Via Luigi Bosi


Tuesday 27 August 2013 — 15:55:10
Mercato Centrale or Mercato delle vettovaglie (food market)


Tuesday 27 August 2013 — 15:55:54
Mercato Centrale or Mercato delle vettovaglie (food market)


Tuesday 27 August 2013 — 15:55:54
“Mercato delle vettovaglie” (detail)


Tuesday 27 August 2013 — 15:56:48
Tempio della Congregazione Olandese Alemanna
(Temple of the Dutch German Congregation)


Tuesday 27 August 2013 — 15:56:48
— detail


Tuesday 27 August 2013 — 15:57:16
About to turn right into the southern (east–west) section of the Fosso Reale — ahead: Piazza Cavour


Tuesday 27 August 2013 — 15:57:58
Monument to Cavour in the Piazza Cavour


Tuesday 27 August 2013 — 15:58:12
About to go under the Piazza Cavour


Tuesday 27 August 2013 — 15:58:26
Under the Piazza Cavour


Tuesday 27 August 2013 — 15:59:04
Westwards along the southern section of the Fosso Reale


Tuesday 27 August 2013 — 16:01:10
Westwards along the southern section of the Fosso Reale, looking right


Tuesday 27 August 2013 — 16:01:46
Westwards along the southern section of the Fosso Reale, looking right


Tuesday 27 August 2013 — 16:02:14
Westwards along the southern section of the Fosso Reale, looking right


Tuesday 27 August 2013 — 16:02:26
Westwards along the southern section of the Fosso Reale, looking left


Tuesday 27 August 2013 — 16:03:14
About to pass under Via Enrico Cialdini


Tuesday 27 August 2013 — 16:03:42
Looking north along the western section of the Fosso Reale; we continue to head westwards.


Tuesday 27 August 2013 — 16:03:54
Looking in the opposite direction


Tuesday 27 August 2013 — 16:04:46
In Darsena Nuova (New Dock)


Tuesday 27 August 2013 — 16:05:44
Port of Livorno


Tuesday 27 August 2013 — 16:07:34
Port of Livorno: western sea wall


Tuesday 27 August 2013 — 16:08:58
Heading east towards Darsena Vecchia (Old Dock): ahead, Fortezza Vecchia


Tuesday 27 August 2013 — 16:09:46
South-west corner of Fortezza Vecchia


Tuesday 27 August 2013 — 16:10:36
South-east corner of Fortezza Vecchia


Tuesday 27 August 2013 — 16:10:44
Southern wall of Fortezza Vecchia


Tuesday 27 August 2013 — 16:11:36
Heading southwards: west side of Darsena Vecchia


Tuesday 27 August 2013 — 16:11:46
View southwards of Darsena Vecchia


Tuesday 27 August 2013 — 16:11:46
— detail


Tuesday 27 August 2013 — 16:11:46
— detail


Tuesday 27 August 2013 — 16:12:32
South-east corner of Darsena Vecchia: Monumento dei Quattro Mori ("Monument of the Four Moors") showing Ferdinando I de’ Medici, Grand Duke of Tuscany, standing victorious above chained Moorish captives


Tuesday 27 August 2013 — 16:14:10
Northwards again: Fortezza Vecchia


Tuesday 27 August 2013 — 16:15:18
Heading east (to the right in this photo), past the southern wall of Fortezza Vecchia


Tuesday 27 August 2013 — 16:15:50
Heading north: eastern wall of Fortezza Vecchia


Tuesday 27 August 2013 — 16:17:42
Right turn eastwards, along the main branch of the northern Fosso Reale


Tuesday 27 August 2013 — 16:18:46
Bearing left north-eastwards, about to pass under Via della Venezia; Fosso Reale branches ahead.


Tuesday 27 August 2013 — 16:19:34
View along the right branch


Tuesday 27 August 2013 — 16:20:24
Bearing left, northwards; a minor branch joins from the left, ahead.


Tuesday 27 August 2013 — 16:21:38
Just after turning right (eastwards): view back of the left side of the canal


Tuesday 27 August 2013 — 16:21:50
Chiesa di Santa Caterina, on the left (north) side of the canal


Tuesday 27 August 2013 — 16:22:16
Fortezza Nuova, visible through the bridge


Tuesday 27 August 2013 — 16:22:38
Looking back at Chiesa di Santa Caterina


Tuesday 27 August 2013 — 16:22:50
Ahead to the east: Fortezza Nuova


Tuesday 27 August 2013 — 16:22:50
Ahead to the east: Fortezza Nuova — detail


Tuesday 27 August 2013 — 16:23:38
Turning left, north-eastwards, to the left of Fortezza Nuova


Tuesday 27 August 2013 — 16:23:58
Continuing north-eastwards, to the left of Fortezza Nuova


Tuesday 27 August 2013 — 16:25:16
Turning right, eastwards, to the left of Fortezza Nuova


Tuesday 27 August 2013 — 16:26:28
Turning right, south-eastwards, to the left of Fortezza Nuova; ahead: Piazza Garibaldi


Tuesday 27 August 2013 — 16:26:40
Ahead: Piazza Garibaldi


Tuesday 27 August 2013 — 16:26:40
Ahead: Piazza Garibaldi — detail showing monument to Giuseppe Garibaldi


Tuesday 27 August 2013 — 16:26:52
Monument to Giuseppe Garibaldi


Tuesday 27 August 2013 — 16:27:04
Just to the south-west (right) of “16:26:52”: Piazza della Repubblica


Tuesday 27 August 2013 — 16:27:04
Just to the south-west (right) of “16:26:52”: Piazza della Repubblica — detail showing monument to Leopoldo II


Tuesday 27 August 2013 — 16:27:28
Monument to Leopoldo II in Piazza della Repubblica


Tuesday 27 August 2013 — 16:28:18
Looking back as we turn right (westwards) at the south-east corner of Fortezza Nuova (out of shot to the left), back to the starting-point

We retraced our route to Piazza del Municipio. There was a public toilet in the municipal building, but it wasn’t well signed and Janet had difficulty finding it. I didn’t need one till I arrived by the shuttle bus back at the ship. Back in the cabin, I lay down and dozed off for getting on for an hour. Ca.6pm we went for dinner. On some of the days I didn’t have any appetite at the sights and smells of the buffet food, and just had soup — except that day the choice was mushroom and something else I didn’t like — followed by cheese and crispbread. Back in the cabin the task of writing postcards to Mum and to Chris fell to Janet because of my inflamed right hand. There was a letter under the door telling us that the tour we’d booked from Toulon on Thursday had been cancelled because not enough people had been interested in it. We went to Destination Services, and after consultation decided we’d make our own way around Toulon. Then we handed the cards over at reception to be posted. “The ship had just left Livorno,” Janet wrote, “so I suggested we go to the Argo lounge again and watch the world go by outside the window.” There was a piano and violin duo playing — two older men, who looked like brothers. “To our delight the classical duo Boros Art were in there playing grand piano and violin (they looked like Albert and Michel Roux!)[i] and they were so good. They entertained us for about half an hour and we clapped vigorously after each tune. As they were leaving I got up and thanked them for a delightful performance. A bit of culture at last!… We sat for a while as [John] still had some beer left, then we returned to the cabin. He tweaked photos, and I had a shower and updated this, etc.” Copied today’s photos (118) from the camera (20:11–20:14). Continued editing, and arranging in the PowerPoint presentation, yesterday’s photos (fourteen of them, 20:30–21:19). I think an hour still needs to be added to the times given by the computer. For Janet wrote, “We both went to bed around 10.30pm, and we both slept well”, which suggests that for “21:19” one should read “22:19”.
[i] French chefs and restaurateurs, brothers, who had a BBC television show in the 1980s.

[Wednesday 28 August 2013]



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