[2015]
[Monday 16 February 2015]
Puno: 3-star La Hacienda Puno Plaza de Armas - Puno 419, Puno, Perú, Telephone Number: +51 51 367340
- DAY 7: Puno B/L
Today’s highlight is a trip to Lake Titicaca, the highest and largest navigable lake on earth. The views from Taquile Island that, on a clear day, can stretch to Bolivia are stunning and well worth the hour or so walk to the top from the port. Have a ‘coca tea’ break half way up before lunch is taken in a simple restaurant that overlooks the lake. Later you will walk back down to the port and board a boat for a brief visit to one of the floating reed islands to visit a local family home. Overnight is in Puno.
Because of another early start (7.00am), we skipped
breakfast… I decided to go outside, sitting on a bench in the Plaza de Armas, to await the coach.
Tuesday 17 February 2015, 06:52:00
Our hotel La Hacienda Puno on the Plaza de Armas, Puno
Tuesday 17 February 2015, 06:52:26
The next-door Palacio de Justicia on the Plaza de Armas, Puno
Janet didn’t join me because the “garrulous fellow” had crossed over — and she avoids contact with him as much as possible. The air and breeze were cool and refreshing. We boarded the small coach when it arrived and were taken along narrow streets to the port.
Tuesday 17 February 2015, 07:05:56
Along narrow streets to the port, Puno
We walked the short distance to the dock where we were divided into two groups boarding two of the three small boats moored there. Ours had a sign “MercuryHolidays” at the front.
Tuesday 17 February 2015, 07:14:20
The port, Puno
Tuesday 17 February 2015, 07:16:54
Small boats moored at the dock
Tuesday 17 February 2015, 07:23:12
Aboard one of the boats
Clever[i] was with us on the outward voyage. We first passed a reed-bed with a channel cut in it. We moored against one of the floating reed islands that we were passing. Clever had already told us the customary greeting and response in the Aymara language: “Kamisaraki?” “Waliki!” The “ground” was very yielding underfoot.
- [i] In full, “Edward Clever”. I wonder, though, whether he had Quechua given and family names, unpronounceable in English.
Tuesday 17 February 2015, 07:27:24
Views from the boat
Tuesday 17 February 2015, 07:28:46
Views from the boat
Tuesday 17 February 2015, 07:36:04
Views from the boat
Tuesday 17 February 2015, 07:48:42
Views from the boat: reed boat built by the Uros people
Tuesday 17 February 2015, 07:50:36
Views from the boat: floating reed island constructed by the Uros people
Tuesday 17 February 2015, 07:50:48
Views from the boat: floating reed island constructed by the Uros people
Tuesday 17 February 2015, 07:51:26
Views from the boat: floating reed island constructed by the Uros people
Tuesday 17 February 2015, 07:54:00
Going “ashore” on Isla Suma Safy
We sat on a a kind of long semicircular “bench” made of reeds for that purpose, and Clever demonstrated the kinds of fish they catch and eat, before the chief of the island (five families live there) brought out his rifle and added hunting to the food-sources.
Tuesday 17 February 2015, 07:56:10
Seated in a semicircle
Tuesday 17 February 2015, 07:56:22
Views from my seat in the semicircle
Tuesday 17 February 2015, 07:56:34
Views from my seat in the semicircle
Tuesday 17 February 2015, 07:56:34 (detail)
Views from my seat in the semicircle
Tuesday 17 February 2015, 07:56:34 (detail)
Views from my seat in the semicircle
Tuesday 17 February 2015, 08:01:54
One of the species of fish caught in Lake Titicaca
Tuesday 17 February 2015, 08:03:06
Another species of fish caught in Lake Titicaca
Tuesday 17 February 2015, 08:05:50
The chief brings out his rifle.
Tuesday 17 February 2015, 08:08:18
View from my seat in the semicircle
In the background was a sign set up: “Isla Suma Safy”.
Tuesday 17 February 2015, 08:11:02 (edited detail with “Uros” flown in from elsewhere)
“Isla Suma Safy”
Clever showed us the long reed out of which the island and tiny houses are made, and which is also a food-source when peeled to the pith.
Tuesday 17 February 2015, 08:10:02
Clever shows to us the reed.
Tuesday 17 February 2015, 08:10:02 (detail)
Tuesday 17 February 2015, 08:10:02 (detail)
Tuesday 17 February 2015, 08:10:02 (detail)
Tuesday 17 February 2015, 08:11:02
The reed as a food-source
Tuesday 17 February 2015, 08:15:06
The reed as a food-source
Home-made wares were demonstrated,—
Tuesday 17 February 2015, 08:16:12
Demonstration of home-made wares
Tuesday 17 February 2015, 08:17:02
Demonstration of home-made wares
Tuesday 17 February 2015, 08:19:00
Demonstration of home-made wares
Tuesday 17 February 2015, 08:19:46
Demonstration of home-made wares
—then there was a model to show how the islands are constructed of reeds atop the rotted remains of roots of reeds.
Tuesday 17 February 2015, 08:23:40
Construction of the islands — demonstration using a model
Tuesday 17 February 2015, 08:24:18
Construction of the islands — demonstration using a model
Tuesday 17 February 2015, 08:27:26
Construction of the islands — demonstration using a model
Tuesday 17 February 2015, 08:27:54
Construction of the islands — demonstration using a model
Tuesday 17 February 2015, 08:28:12
Construction of the islands — demonstration using a model
Tuesday 17 February 2015, 08:29:12
Construction of the islands — demonstration using a model
Tuesday 17 February 2015, 08:29:26
Construction of the islands — demonstration using a model
Tuesday 17 February 2015, 08:32:04
Construction of the islands — demonstration using a model
Then we had a walk around. It seemed strange to go in someone’s house and see inside, but that’s what we were invited to do.
Tuesday 17 February 2015, 08:36:10
A walk around
Tuesday 17 February 2015, 08:36:18
One of the houses
Tuesday 17 February 2015, 08:37:22
One of the houses
Tuesday 17 February 2015, 08:38:12
Views of the island
Tuesday 17 February 2015, 08:39:44
Views of the island
Tuesday 17 February 2015, 08:42:48
Views of the island: a further food-source
Tuesday 17 February 2015, 08:43:52
Views of the island
Tuesday 17 February 2015, 08:44:36
Views of the island: a further food-source
Tuesday 17 February 2015, 08:44:46
One of the children
Tuesday 17 February 2015, 08:45:32
Another of the children
We decided to buy a cushion cover which appeared to depict life on the island: it had the legend “Uros Titikaka” on it.
Tuesday 17 February 2015, 18:35:26
Cushion-cover
In farewell they sang to us in their own language Aymara, apart from a final surprise in “parroted” English.
Tuesday 17 February 2015, 08:57:06 (movie screen-capture)
Farewell songs
After that we boarded the boat and went the long distance to the “true” island Taquile. On the way, part of the hilly coast that we passed appeared to be snow-covered: it was, were told, hail.
Tuesday 17 February 2015, 09:01:40
Boarding the boat
Tuesday 17 February 2015, 09:07:30
Views from the boat
Tuesday 17 February 2015, 09:24:34
Views from the boat
Tuesday 17 February 2015, 09:27:40
Views from the boat: distant headland with white precipitation
Tuesday 17 February 2015, 09:59:16
Views from the boat
Tuesday 17 February 2015, 10:05:50
Views from the boat: green
Tuesday 17 February 2015, 10:05:58
Views from the boat: white
Tuesday 17 February 2015, 10:15:22
Views from the boat
Tuesday 17 February 2015, 10:18:32
Views from the boat
Tuesday 17 February 2015, 10:20:10
Views from the boat
Tuesday 17 February 2015, 10:21:46
Views from the boat
Tuesday 17 February 2015, 10:23:10
Views from the boat
Tuesday 17 February 2015, 10:25:02
Views from the boat
Tuesday 17 February 2015, 10:29:24
Views from the boat
Tuesday 17 February 2015, 10:29:44
Views from the boat
Tuesday 17 February 2015, 10:32:32
Views from the boat
There followed an hour without photos.
We didn’t go to the port of Taquile, but moored at a rough jetty, in a place where there was a beach ahead nearby and there were pre-Inca terraces aside.
Tuesday 17 February 2015, 11:32:00
A young boy helps with mooring.
Tuesday 17 February 2015, 11:35:12
Going ashore
We picked our way along the shore — sand, vegetation, rocks — till we got to a rock formation more or less cut into steps.
Tuesday 17 February 2015, 11:35:22
On Taquile
Tuesday 17 February 2015, 11:35:58
On Taquile
Tuesday 17 February 2015, 11:37:42
On Taquile
Tuesday 17 February 2015, 11:39:36
On Taquile
Tuesday 17 February 2015, 11:49:20
On Taquile
At the top of this hill was the little restaurant where we had lunch. I made it all the way up — passing the “garrulous fellow” who’d stopped for a breather, and a guy we’ve dubbed “Trevor McDonald”.
Tuesday 17 February 2015, 11:52:06
On Taquile
First we were sat in a semi-circle, where island life was demonstrated,
e.g. knitting by the men, weaving by the women, the significance of different kinds of hats and belts. Here the language was Quechua.
Tuesday 17 February 2015, 11:56:32
Demonstration of wares
Tuesday 17 February 2015, 11:56:44
Demonstration of wares
Tuesday 17 February 2015, 11:58:54
Demonstration of wares
Tuesday 17 February 2015, 12:06:18
Demonstration of wares
Tuesday 17 February 2015, 12:07:06
Demonstration of wares
Tuesday 17 February 2015, 12:10:20
Demonstration of wares
Tuesday 17 February 2015, 12:13:44
Demonstration of wares
There was music and dance, and one or two accepted the invitation to join in, including surprisingly the Welsh lady who’d been flaked out with an oxygen-mask in the lobby after dinner last night.
Tuesday 17 February 2015, 12:23:46 (movie screen-capture)
Music and dance
For lunch there was what looked like fried bread with a spicy dip;—
Tuesday 17 February 2015, 12:28:02
Lunch: Decoration of Cantua buxifolia flowers
Tuesday 17 February 2015, 12:30:24
Lunch
Tuesday 17 February 2015, 12:33:58
Lunch
—then there was quinoa soup, and I risked a beer (though for the most part of the holiday, because of the altitude and the consequent need to keep hydrated, I avoided alcohol),—
Tuesday 17 February 2015, 12:38:24
Lunch
—followed by fried salmon-trout; and finally an infusion of coca leaves and a fragrant if somewhat pungent herb.
Tuesday 17 February 2015, 13:23:00
Lunch
There was thunder while we were there. As we made our way back to the boat there was “garrulous fellow” sprawled out on the sand like a beached whale (just visible, 13:40:06,
below).
Tuesday 17 February 2015, 13:40:06
Making our way back to the boat
Tuesday 17 February 2015, 13:50:44
Making our way back to the boat
I noticed a potato garden, where some of the plants had white flowers and some blue, indicative we’d been told of the colour of potato they’d produce.
Tuesday 17 February 2015, 13:51:50
Potato garden
Tuesday 17 February 2015, 13:53:28
Potato garden
On the long trip back, there was some rain, and the boat rocked seriously from time to time.
Tuesday 17 February 2015, 16:12:54
Views from the boat on the way back: along the channel cut through the reeds. The clouds still look angry.
Tuesday 17 February 2015, 16:15:24
Views from the boat on the way back
Tuesday 17 February 2015, 16:55:18
Back ashore, heading for the coach: Clever referred to the steamship as “the Titanic”.
On arrival back at the hotel, we obtained our passports and room-key back from Reception, went up the room, and got ready to go out again. We followed a street-map we picked up at Reception, to a large supermarket
(Plaza Vea), where we bought bread and apples for Janet and me, bananas for
Janet, and a small bottle of Inca-Kola for me. This last is bright yellow and tastes a bit like
Tizer (as I remember it) with a bit of dandelion and burdock in the
mix.[ii] We hailed a rickety and exhaust-fumes reeking “tuk-tuk” which deposited us at the Plaza de Armas.
- [ii] A later opinion was that it tasted like cream soda; but on 9 March 2015, on a train journey, when I bought an
IRN-Bru from the catering trolley, that was very reminiscent indeed of
Inca-Kola.
Tuesday 17 February 2015, 18:20:26
View from the Plaza de Armas
Tuesday 17 February 2015, 18:20:42
View from the Plaza de Armas: the hotel
We had to ask for hand-towels again.[iii] Transferred the 98 items (mostly photos) from the camera to the
WD Elements HDD (18:38–18:43), while Janet started packing so that there’d only be last-minute items to add tomorrow.…
- [iii] We had to ask for hand-towels again—as, I think, we’d had to do the previous evening.
[Wednesday 18 February 2015]
[2015]
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