Day 5 - Free Day, Taormina This morning we are free in Taormina, one of the smartest and most exclusive small towns in Italy – it has everything! Retaining much of its medieval charm, wonderfully situated on a high balcony, facing Etna and overlooking the sea, it is renowned for its beautiful gardens and charming atmosphere. Today, its main street is lined by smart, designer boutiques and exclusive jewellers, with the tiny side streets, some of which are so narrow you can touch both sides at once, leading to intimate piazzas, lined with atmospheric family-run restaurants. As you would expect in a country so famous for its cuisine, speciality food shops are everywhere, selling fresh pasta, olives, Sicilian wine and the local Marsala. Street stalls groan under the weight of ripe Mediterranean vegetables, tomatoes, courgettes, peppers and aubergines, with flowers and window boxes everywhere, adding a splash of colour, with the stylish locals stopping to exchange a few words in the streets completing the picture. Taormina’s greatest claim to fame is its amazing theatre, a legacy of the ancient Greeks and still in use today. Wonderfully preserved with its panoramic view of Etna in the background; to attend one of the occasional classical music concerts in this most special of venues must rank as one of life’s more pleasurable moments. This afternoon you are free to explore as you wish.
Janet was up at 6.30am; I followed when she vacated the bathroom; and at 7.30am we went the three elevators and passages and twists and turns route down to the restaurant for a buffet breakfast.
Janet had decided to make this her “Saturday”, also known as “pig-out day”, so having had all I wanted by 8am I left her to it and went back to the room. Today was a free day, but it had been arranged that the coach would go into Taormina at 9.30am for those who wanted it and pick up any who returned to the drop-off point at 3.00pm.
Janet returned to the room, then ca.9.15am we left for the long trek down to the hotel drive. We reversed north-eastwards out of the drive, then proceeded south-westwards along the Via Nazionale, curving southwards. Taormina is built on the top of a hill that sticks out into the sea, and we rounded this headland. It has four promontories, the third of which is a near-island with a narrow causeway that Denise pointed out as “Isola Bella”. At the southernmost part of the headland we turned right, up a winding and zigzagging road, Via Luigi Pirandello, which climbed some 700 feet, and were dropped, after the road straightened out finally, at a bus station. Denise escorted us the three or four hundred yards to the end of Via Luigi Pirandello, turning left and leading us through the remains of an old gate into the narrow main street that threads through the length of the old city.
Sunday 7 June 2015 10:10:22
Remains of an old gate at the entrance to Corso Umberto
Sunday 7 June 2015 10:10:22 (detail)
Inscription above the old gate—
—giving the date as “MDCCCVIII” (1808) — not as old as I thought it might be
“SPQR” (“Senatus PopulusQue Romanus”) I know already from Rome;
”SPQT”: “Senatus PopulusQue Tauromenianus”, perhaps.
Sunday 7 June 2015 10:11:10
In Corso Umberto
On the way up, we’d passed a bank (BNL: Banca Nazionale del
Lavoro), so rather than risk not finding an ATM in the old town, we retraced our steps the 100 yards or more along Via Luigi Pirandello to find it. But the automatic folding glass doors of the establishment barred our way. We’d almost given up, when a helpful passer-by showed us how to operate the door control with one’s debit card. We stopped and sat out of the bright sun and intense heat outside
Bar Pirandello near the end of Via Luigi Pirandello. I had a gelato pistacchio and a small beer and
Janet had arancini and six different flavours of gelati.
Sunday 7 June 2015 10:57:14
At the Bar Pirandello in Via Luigi Pirandello
Even nearer the end of that street, on the other side, was a wine shop, which also sold fizzy drinks.
Janet asked the shopkeeper whether he’d be open ca.3pm when we would be returning that way, and he assured us that he would. We went back through the gate into Corso Umberto, turned first left into Via Teatro Greco, and made our way to the ancient theatre at its far end.
Sunday 7 June 2015 11:18:28
In Via Teatro Greco, heading approximately east
We were about to go to the cash booth expecting to pay €8 each, when one of their staff standing there gave us free-admission tickets. Was there free admission for over 65s? I don’t know.
We got in for free.
Sunday 7 June 2015 11:28:06
Ancient theatre of Taormina
Sunday 7 June 2015 11:29:26
Ancient theatre of Taormina
Sunday 7 June 2015 11:30:12
Ancient theatre of Taormina
Sunday 7 June 2015 11:31:32
Ancient theatre of Taormina
Sunday 7 June 2015 11:32:36
Ancient theatre of Taormina
Sunday 7 June 2015 11:34:50
Ancient theatre of Taormina
Sunday 7 June 2015 11:35:56
Ancient theatre of Taormina
Sunday 7 June 2015 11:36:24
Ancient theatre of Taormina
Sunday 7 June 2015 11:40:08
Ancient theatre of Taormina: View approximately north-east
Sunday 7 June 2015 11:40:08 (detail 1)
Ancient theatre of Taormina: View approximately north-east
Sunday 7 June 2015 11:40:08 (detail 2)
Ancient theatre of Taormina: View approximately north-east
Sunday 7 June 2015 11:40:08 (detail 3)
Ancient theatre of Taormina: View approximately north-east
Sunday 7 June 2015 11:40:18
Ancient theatre of Taormina: View approximately west
Sunday 7 June 2015 11:42:46
Ancient theatre of Taormina: I thought I was photographing Isola Bella but I think this is the promontory to the north of it.
Sunday 7 June 2015 11:42:46 (detail)
Ancient theatre of Taormina: I thought I was photographing Isola Bella but this is the promontory to the north of it.
Sunday 7 June 2015 11:44:02
Ancient theatre of Taormina
Sunday 7 June 2015 11:45:46
Ancient theatre of Taormina: Saracen fortress to the west overlooking the town
Sunday 7 June 2015 11:46:50
Ancient theatre of Taormina: Cloudy view of Etna to the south-west
Sunday 7 June 2015 11:47:50
Ancient theatre of Taormina
Sunday 7 June 2015 11:47:50 (detail)
Ancient theatre of Taormina: Dismantling scaffolding after some theatrical presentation
Sunday 7 June 2015 11:52:28
Ancient theatre of Taormina: Saracen fortress to the west overlooking the town
Sunday 7 June 2015 11:59:48
Ancient theatre of Taormina
Sunday 7 June 2015 11:59:48 (detail)
Ancient theatre of Taormina
Sunday 7 June 2015 12:01:22
Ancient theatre of Taormina: Clearer view of Etna to the south-west
Sunday 7 June 2015 12:07:36
Ancient theatre of Taormina: View towards the Bay of Isola Bella — a jay posing for me
Sunday 7 June 2015 12:07:36 (detail)
Ancient theatre of Taormina: View towards the Bay of Isola Bella — a jay posing for me
Sunday 7 June 2015 12:08:32
Ancient theatre of Taormina: Bay of Isola Bella
Sunday 7 June 2015 12:11:18
Ancient theatre of Taormina: One of a number of modern sculptures (right)
Sunday 7 June 2015 12:15:40
Ancient theatre of Taormina: View south-west along the coast, including sight of Etna
Sunday 7 June 2015 12:16:14
Ancient theatre of Taormina: Fairly clear view of Etna to the south-west
Sunday 7 June 2015 12:17:04
Ancient theatre of Taormina: Etna, left, and Saracen fortress, right
I went down to the “orchestra” of the theatre to video a panoramic view. I was distracted by doing so, and didn’t hear where
Janet said she was going. As a result, I looked and looked for her but didn’t find her, and in the end made my way out through the huge exit portal. I waited there for her, and eventually she did appear. (When I looked at the video that I’d made I didn’t like it and deleted it.)
Sunday 7 June 2015 12:34:16
Ancient theatre of Taormina: Exit
Sunday 7 June 2015 12:34:16 (detail)
Ancient theatre of Taormina: Exit
There were loos nearby, which we used before returning along Via Teatro Greco and turning left into Corso Umberto. We were heading for the cathedral.
Sunday 7 June 2015 12:53:40
At the west end of Via Teatro Greco, about to turn left into Corso Umberto
Sunday 7 June 2015 13:01:08
Piazza IX Aprile with (ahead) the Porta Di Mezzo and its clock tower
The clock is five minutes slow.
Sunday 7 June 2015 13:01:48
Piazza IX Aprile: Chiesa di San Giuseppe (right)
Sunday 7 June 2015 13:03:24
Piazza IX Aprile: View uphill to the right.
Sunday 7 June 2015 13:03:40
The continuation of Corso Umberto, as seen through the Porta Di Mezzo
Sunday 7 June 2015 13:07:10
The Duomo: the Cathedral of San Nicola, Taormina
Sunday 7 June 2015 13:07:32
The Cathedral of San Nicola and (ahead) the Piazza del Duomo
Sunday 7 June 2015 13:07:32 (detail)
The Cathedral of San Nicola and (ahead) the Piazza del Duomo
Sunday 7 June 2015 13:07:52
Looking past the Piazza Duomo to the end of Corso Umberto: the Porta Catania
Sunday 7 June 2015 13:09:40
Fountain in the Piazza Duomo
Sunday 7 June 2015 13:10:24
Cathedral of San Nicola, Taormina
Sunday 7 June 2015 13:12:02
Cathedral of San Nicola, Taormina
Sunday 7 June 2015 13:12:26
Cathedral of San Nicola, Taormina
Sunday 7 June 2015 13:15:38
Cathedral of San Nicola, Taormina
Sunday 7 June 2015 13:15:48
Cathedral of San Nicola, Taormina
Sunday 7 June 2015 13:15:48 (detail 1)
Cathedral of San Nicola, Taormina
Sunday 7 June 2015 13:15:48 (detail 2)
Cathedral of San Nicola, Taormina
Sunday 7 June 2015 13:16:40
Cathedral of San Nicola, Taormina
Sunday 7 June 2015 13:17:08
Cathedral of San Nicola, Taormina
Sunday 7 June 2015 13:17:20
Cathedral of San Nicola, Taormina
Sunday 7 June 2015 13:19:12
Cathedral of San Nicola, Taormina
Sunday 7 June 2015 13:19:58
Cathedral of San Nicola, Taormina
Sunday 7 June 2015 13:20:50
Cathedral of San Nicola, Taormina
Sunday 7 June 2015 13:21:40
Cathedral of San Nicola, Taormina
Sunday 7 June 2015 13:21:58
Cathedral of San Nicola, Taormina
Sunday 7 June 2015 13:22:58
Cathedral of San Nicola, Taormina
Sunday 7 June 2015 13:26:04
Cathedral of San Nicola, Taormina
Sunday 7 June 2015 13:26:50
Cathedral of San Nicola, Taormina
Sunday 7 June 2015 13:27:24
Cathedral of San Nicola, Taormina
Sunday 7 June 2015 13:27:54
Cathedral of San Nicola, Taormina
Sunday 7 June 2015 13:30:14
Cathedral of San Nicola, Taormina
Sunday 7 June 2015 13:30:42
Cathedral of San Nicola, Taormina
Having visited the cathedral we walked back along Corso Umberto. We decided to go almost its full length before looking for somewhere for lunch, because we didn’t want to be hurrying back a long way with no time to spare.
Sunday 7 June 2015 13:39:04
Corso Umberto, Taormina
Sunday 7 June 2015 13:39:04 (detail)
Corso Umberto, Taormina
Sunday 7 June 2015 13:40:20
Street off to the right of Corso Umberto as we walked back
Sunday 7 June 2015 13:43:24
Corso Umberto, Taormina
Just before we got to the swallowtail-crenellated building, we turned left down an alley that went up wide-ish steps. On the steps were tables with umbrellas outside an establishment that called itself
Risto-Pub Tutti ccà (“all there” in Sicilian). Here we sat and enjoyed antipasto and penne with tomato and beef ragu.
Sunday 7 June 2015 14:34:40
Leaving Risto-Pub Tutti ccà
Sunday 7 June 2015 14:34:40 (detail 1)
Leaving Risto-Pub Tutti ccà
Sunday 7 June 2015 14:34:40 (detail 2)
Leaving Risto-Pub Tutti ccà
Janet bought some Sicilian confections at a shop, and after I followed her in I bought a 37.5cl bottle of almond-flavoured sweet fortified red wine, 16% a.b.v., for €7. There is a sweet wine called “Marsala”, and although this was actually made in Marsala, Sicily, it was not thus designated; it was labelled “Vino alla
Mandorla”. Janet was really pissed off because the shop we visited near the start of our visit had a “Chiuso” (closed) sign on the door. She managed to buy some cans from another shop, and we managed to reach the coach for the leaving-time of 3.00pm.
Sunday 7 June 2015 15:08:16
Seen from the coach: Isola Bella (lower right)
Back in the hotel room, I transferred 63 photos from the camera to the
WD Elements HDD (16:02–16:04). Janet went outside for a while then lay down on the bed and fell asleep.… After a couple of plastic cups of the “Vino alla Mandorla” I felt sleepy and also lay down.… There were peals of distant thunder for quite some time, and indeed I saw a more or less vertical lightning discharge near the horizon.…
Ca.7.30pm we made our way down to the bar. Despite my misgivings at the price yesterday I had
Campari as aperativo, and Janet asked the barman if he could make up something non-alcoholic that would be like
Campari. In the corridor-cum-lounge (or “conservatory”, as Janet
called it), where we sat, there was a man singing to his own guitar accompaniment. Dinner was supposed to be at 7.50pm (which
Janet already considered unwelcomely late), but the restaurant doors didn’t open till 8.15pm. I took the remaining undrunk wine with me and finished it. Perhaps I should have left the bottle with the staff there last night, because I had to explain that I ordered it yesterday evening.
Janet doesn’t like eating late, but she so enjoyed the company of the other
Riviera customers on the table we happened to be on that we didn’t tear ourselves away till 9.30pm.… We went to bed
ca.10.30pm.
