John Edward Cooper’s Notes

[i] Meet at the end of the pier 10 minutes before tour departure.

Cruise News, Saturday 23rd January 2016








Woke up ca.6.45am… Went a circuitous route on the promenade deck to breakfast, and a circuitous route back. It was cool and very breezy — other days, one has been met out of the door by hot air — and with a bit of a swell the ship was swaying slightly. Janet was getting dressed when I got back; … she went for some breakfast[ii]… At 9am we went down to deck 4, and out onto the pier. The pier, alongside which our ship was moored, met another long pier almost at a right-angle, and turning right we marched along that to the end, where there were guides carrying signs, and people congregating around them.

[ii] According to her journal, she went to Reception first to book late check-out from our cabin on the final day. (It turned out, in fact, that we had to vacate our cabin, and were given another cabin to occupy.)

Saturday 23 January 2016 09:10:42
The Thomson Dream, silhouetted against the clouded-over sunlight

Our guide, Elisabeth, led us through a succession of tourist shopping streets. We saw an ATM, but there wasn’t time to break ranks and use it. We reached the parking lot and as we boarded one of the waiting coaches, a paper bag containing food for lunch was handed to each person. “There were two bus-loads of us,” Janet wrote. Peter and Trudi Millard were on the same coach as we were, and our paths crossed with brief chats during today’s visits.

KOHINLICH [sic] & DZIBANCHE MAYAN RUINS
If you fancy yourself as a bit of an Indiana Jones, a visit to these 4th -century ruins is a must Thanks to their tucked-away setting, they're off the main tourist trail and have a really mysterious vibe as a result In fact, not much has changed here for centuries. Your day starts off in air-conditioned comfort with a coach drive to the one-time capital city of Dzibanche. Here, you'll climb the tallest pyramid to take in the magnificent views of the site. Next up, follow the maze of jungle paths to explore a series of ruined temples. You'll get a real sense of what life was like hundreds of years ago. Then it's on to Kohinlich [sic]. This recently-excavated site is a real diamond in the rough. It's framed by chunky palm trees and boasts a series of carved masks depicting those who ruled the area back in the 4th century. You'll get to climb the highest temple here, too. It's a fantastic viewpoint to spot some of the eye-catching tropical birds who live in these parts. Just so you know— There is a government tax of 5-8 US$ on the use of video cameras in the ruins. The journey time is approximately 2 hours bus ride each way. The grounds of the ruins consist of uneven limestone and loose stones, comfortable shoes are recommended. This tour is not suitable for guests in wheelchairs or who have walking difficulties.

The coach looked modern enough; but the lady opposite had to change seats because that one was in a fully reclined position, and the adjusting lever with which to right it was broken off. Indeed, my seat, though equipped with a working lever, would slide into a reclined position if I leaned back even moderately. Actually, I’d swapped seats with Janet, from the window to the aisle seat, because she’d felt a draught there. But when she commented that it was cold on the coach, an obese young woman nearby disagreed. Of course she didn’t feel the cold, Janet said later to me privately, because of all the padding that she had!


An obese young woman didn’t feel the cold because of all the padding that she had.

The journey to Dzibanche, of about 115 miles, took 2½ hours. Some of the villages and settlements that we passed were in a ramshackle condition. All the brightly painted yellow-green bus shelters were very smart, though. “First impression of Mexico: ‘Smart bus shelters!’” When one hears “America” one assumes that the United States are meant. So it gave me a perverse sense of pleasure that my first step into North America was into Mexico. Indeed, it was in a sense into the “United States”: los Estados Unidos Mexicanos. I felt similarly when I was briefly in Brazil and longer in Peru: “I’ve been to America — South!” On the way to Dzibanche, Elisabeth’s talk imparted much the same information as that of Gus yesterday. We were joined on arrival by a local guide, Lisbeth, who led us round the site, stopping with explanations from time to time, and giving us time to climb the pyramids and look around.


Plan of the Dzibanche archaeological site, found on the internet

First stop was the “Temple of the Lintels”. Because the top had stone structures on it and a bounding wall, unlike the High Temple of yesterday, being up there didn’t feel scary. Janet came up too, but didn’t climb any others at Dzibanche.


Saturday 23 January 2016 12:10:58
Building 6: Temple of the Lintels


Saturday 23 January 2016 12:12:52
Building 6: Temple of the Lintels


Saturday 23 January 2016 12:13:04
Building 6: Temple of the Lintels


Saturday 23 January 2016 12:22:08
Building 6: Temple of the Lintels


Saturday 23 January 2016 12:22:40
Building 6: Temple of the Lintels


Saturday 23 January 2016 12:23:44
Building 6: Temple of the Lintels


Saturday 23 January 2016 12:23:58
Building 6: Temple of the Lintels


Saturday 23 January 2016 12:39:08
Our guide describes the Mayan world tree.


Saturday 23 January 2016 12:39:08 (detail)
The Mayan world tree, with sky, earth, and underworld


Saturday 23 January 2016 12:44:08
South and North Palaces


Saturday 23 January 2016 12:44:46
?North Palace


Saturday 23 January 2016 12:45:28
?South Palace


Saturday 23 January 2016 12:46:08
East side of Building 2: Temple of the Cormorants

My next climb was up the “Temple of the Owl”.


Saturday 23 January 2016 12:47:02
Building 1: Temple of the Owl


Saturday 23 January 2016 12:46:32
Building 1: Temple of the Owl


Saturday 23 January 2016 12:46:32 (detail 1)
Building 1: Temple of the Owl


Saturday 23 January 2016 12:46:32 (detail 2)
Building 1: Temple of the Owl


Saturday 23 January 2016 12:46:32 (detail 3)
Building 1: Temple of the Owl


Saturday 23 January 2016 12:47:34
Building 1: Temple of the Owl


Saturday 23 January 2016 12:49:02
Looking down from the top of Building 1


Saturday 23 January 2016 12:49:48
Building 2 seen from the top of Building 1


Saturday 23 January 2016 12:50:44
Top of Building 1


Saturday 23 January 2016 12:50:58
Top of Building 1


Saturday 23 January 2016 12:51:06
Top of Building 1


Saturday 23 January 2016 12:54:52
Seen on the way to Building 2: bas-relief in the surviving stucco


Saturday 23 January 2016 12:55:02
On the way to the west side of Building 2


Saturday 23 January 2016 12:55:02 (detail 1)


Saturday 23 January 2016 12:55:02 (detail 2)


Saturday 23 January 2016 12:55:02 (detail 3)

The “Temple of the Cormorants” was roped off, so I couldn’t climb up that.


Saturday 23 January 2016 12:56:30
Building 2, west side: Temple of the Cormorants


Saturday 23 January 2016 12:56:54
Building 2, west side: Temple of the Cormorants


Saturday 23 January 2016 12:57:10
Building 2, west side: Temple of the Cormorants


Saturday 23 January 2016 12:58:14
Building 2, west side: Temple of the Cormorants


Saturday 23 January 2016 12:58:32
Building 2, west side: Temple of the Cormorants


Saturday 23 January 2016 12:58:50
Building 2, west side: Temple of the Cormorants


Saturday 23 January 2016 13:01:34
Tree showing scars from tapping for chicle


Saturday 23 January 2016 13:01:42
Tree showing scars from tapping for chicle


Saturday 23 January 2016 13:01:52
Tree showing scars from tapping for chicle


Saturday 23 January 2016 13:02:04
Tree showing scars from tapping for chicle


Saturday 23 January 2016 13:03:44
Building 16


Saturday 23 January 2016 13:04:24
Building 11

Finally, there was the “Temple of the Captives”, low compared with the other two I climbed. It had near the right corner a “mask”, familiar from temples we visited yesterday.


Saturday 23 January 2016 13:05:12
Building 13: Temple of the Captives


Saturday 23 January 2016 13:05:12 (detail 1)


Saturday 23 January 2016 13:05:12 (detail 2)


Saturday 23 January 2016 13:05:12 (detail 3)


Saturday 23 January 2016 13:05:56
Low-relief carving


Saturday 23 January 2016 13:05:56 (detail)
Low-relief carving


Saturday 23 January 2016 13:06:08
Low-relief carving


Saturday 23 January 2016 13:06:20
Low-relief carving


Saturday 23 January 2016 13:07:34
Mask on Building 13


Saturday 23 January 2016 13:08:28
View from the top of Building 13


Saturday 23 January 2016 13:08:44
Top of Building 13


Saturday 23 January 2016 13:08:52
Top of Building 13

We returned to the coach, where I had lunch from the brown-paper bag that I’d been handed when I first boarded the coach. There were: a bread roll with cheese, a banana, a carton of fruit juice, a chocolate-covered biscuit — and perhaps other items which I’ve forgotten. The journey south to Kohunlich was only 20 miles or so, so we were there after about half an hour.


Plan of the Kohunlich archaeological site, found on the internet

“Kohunlich” might look as if it is a Yucatec Mayan word, but we were told it was in fact a corruption of the English “Cohune Ridge”. Indeed, at the place we parked just outside the site there was an example of a Cohune Palm.


Saturday 23 January 2016 14:08:40
Cohune Palm near the Kohunlich archaeological site


Saturday 23 January 2016 14:09:02
Cohune Palm near the Kohunlich archaeological site


Saturday 23 January 2016 14:09:20
Kohunlich archaeological site


Saturday 23 January 2016 14:09:20 (detail)


Saturday 23 January 2016 14:09:42
Entering the Kohunlich archaeological site


Saturday 23 January 2016 14:09:42 (detail)
Entering the Kohunlich archaeological site


Saturday 23 January 2016 14:10:56
Kohunlich archaeological site


Saturday 23 January 2016 14:10:56 (detail)


Saturday 23 January 2016 14:11:30
The Temple of the King


Saturday 23 January 2016 14:11:30 (detail 1)
The Temple of the King


Saturday 23 January 2016 14:11:30 (detail 2)
The Temple of the King


Saturday 23 January 2016 14:11:40
The Acropolis


Saturday 23 January 2016 14:11:40 (detail 1)
The Acropolis


Saturday 23 January 2016 14:11:40 (detail 2)
The Acropolis

Lisbeth was with us for this part of the excursion as well. Our first destination was the “Temple of the Masks”.


Saturday 23 January 2016 14:19:16
Our guide shows an illustration of the Temple of the Masks


Saturday 23 January 2016 14:19:16 (detail)
Illustration of the Temple of the Masks


Saturday 23 January 2016 14:21:32
Looking back from near the Temple of the Masks


Saturday 23 January 2016 14:22:54
Temple of the Masks (or “Building of the Figureheads”)


Saturday 23 January 2016 14:22:54 (detail)
Temple of the Masks (or “Building of the Figureheads”)


Saturday 23 January 2016 14:21:44
Temple of the Masks


Saturday 23 January 2016 14:23:22
Temple of the Masks


Saturday 23 January 2016 14:24:10
Temple of the Masks — two masks on the left (two missing)


Saturday 23 January 2016 14:24:40
Temple of the Masks — central staircase


Saturday 23 January 2016 14:25:04
Temple of the Masks — three masks on the right (one missing)


Saturday 23 January 2016 14:25:52
Temple of the Masks — lower right mask


Saturday 23 January 2016 14:25:52 (detail)


Saturday 23 January 2016 14:26:38
Temple of the Masks — middle right mask


Saturday 23 January 2016 14:26:38 (detail)


Saturday 23 January 2016 14:27:12
Temple of the Masks — upper right mask


Saturday 23 January 2016 14:27:12 (detail)


Saturday 23 January 2016 14:27:28
Temple of the Masks


Saturday 23 January 2016 14:27:58
View from the Temple of the Masks


Saturday 23 January 2016 14:28:12
Temple of the Masks — in the structure at the top


Saturday 23 January 2016 14:28:20
Temple of the Masks — in the structure at the top


Saturday 23 January 2016 14:29:24
Temple of the Masks — upper left mask


Saturday 23 January 2016 14:29:24 (detail)


Saturday 23 January 2016 14:29:58
Temple of the Masks — lower left mask


Saturday 23 January 2016 14:29:58 (detail)


Saturday 23 January 2016 14:32:18
Descending the hill from the Temple of the Masks


Saturday 23 January 2016 14:33:38
Stela from somewhere on the site


Saturday 23 January 2016 14:33:16
Stela from somewhere on the site

The concept of the “Ball Court” was familiar to us from yesterday.


Saturday 23 January 2016 14:41:06
Ball Court


Saturday 23 January 2016 14:41:24
Ball Court


Saturday 23 January 2016 14:42:26
Southern side of the Temple of the Stelae


Saturday 23 January 2016 14:42:34
Kohunlich archaeological site

We had free time. I turned around, photographing the “Plaza of the Stelae”, but didn’t visit the “Palace of the Stelae” at the end of the plaza where I was standing.


Saturday 23 January 2016 14:53:30
Views around the Plaza of the Stelae: Palace of the Stelae


Saturday 23 January 2016 14:53:44
Views around the Plaza of the Stelae


Saturday 23 January 2016 14:53:52
Views around the Plaza of the Stelae: The Stands


Saturday 23 January 2016 14:54:00
Views around the Plaza of the Stelae: The Stands


Saturday 23 January 2016 14:54:08
Views around the Plaza of the Stelae


Saturday 23 January 2016 14:54:20
Views around the Plaza of the Stelae


Saturday 23 January 2016 14:54:28
Views around the Plaza of the Stelae: back at the Palace of the Stelae

Then we went to the opposite corner of the plaza and mounted the monumental steps to the platform of the “Acropolis”.


Saturday 23 January 2016 14:55:18
Kohunlich archaeological site


Saturday 23 January 2016 15:04:28
The Acropolis


Saturday 23 January 2016 15:04:28 (detail)


Saturday 23 January 2016 14:55:58
Views along the southern wall of the Acropolis


Saturday 23 January 2016 14:56:06
Views along the southern wall of the Acropolis


Saturday 23 January 2016 14:56:12
Views along the southern wall of the Acropolis


Saturday 23 January 2016 14:56:18
Views along the southern wall of the Acropolis


Saturday 23 January 2016 14:56:58
Views along the west side of the Acropolis


Saturday 23 January 2016 14:57:20
Views along the west side of the Acropolis


Saturday 23 January 2016 14:57:28
Views along the west side of the Acropolis


Saturday 23 January 2016 14:58:18
The Acropolis steps


Saturday 23 January 2016 14:59:30
On the platform of the Acropolis


Saturday 23 January 2016 14:59:58
On the platform of the Acropolis


Saturday 23 January 2016 15:00:22
Temple of the King from the Acropolis


Saturday 23 January 2016 15:00:56
Temple of the King from the Acropolis


Saturday 23 January 2016 15:01:10
On the platform of the Acropolis


Saturday 23 January 2016 15:01:54
On the platform of the Acropolis


Saturday 23 January 2016 15:02:52
View down the Acropolis steps


Saturday 23 January 2016 15:03:24
Steps (below) and westward extension (above) of the Acropolis


Saturday 23 January 2016 15:05:02
The Palace


Saturday 23 January 2016 15:05:02 (detail)


Saturday 23 January 2016 15:05:32
The Palace


Saturday 23 January 2016 15:06:00
In the Palace


Saturday 23 January 2016 15:06:16
In the Palace


Saturday 23 January 2016 15:06:42
In the Palace


Saturday 23 January 2016 15:08:36
West Residential Complex


Saturday 23 January 2016 15:08:36 (detail)


Saturday 23 January 2016 15:07:24
West Residential Complex


Saturday 23 January 2016 15:08:54
The Temple of the King


Saturday 23 January 2016 15:09:20
Leaving the Kohunlich archaeological site

The return journey, of 107 miles, was only marginally shorter than the outward one, and took over 2 hours. Any hopes, therefore, of using the ATM that we spotted on the way out, were vain, for we were in a hurry to get back from the parking place to the ship. The Cruise News said, “Please be back on board by 5.30pm”, but it was 5.35pm when we turned the corner between the two piers.


Saturday 23 January 2016 17:35:58
Approaching the Thomson Dream

…A little before 6pm we went to the Lido Restaurant for dinner. Janet had two Fanta Zero, and I had two glasses of house red wine (17:59:23, 18:28:26). Despite our sitting in our tried and tested position, i.e. as much out of draughts as possible, Janet found the air conditioning a bit fierce, and got quite chilled. Anyway, we had a rapid turn around the promenade deck before returning to the cabin.… Janet wanted to go to bed early, so I headed on my own a little before 8pm to the Broadway Show Lounge. I sat in the same front-row location as yesterday. I had a Campari and soda (20:04:46), and because I’d finished it before the show started I had another one (20:19:10). The show tonight was the one that had been billed for 20 January 2016:

Broadway Blitz
Tonight’s show features music from some
fantastic musicals, from the girls getting you
hot under the collar in Saigon, to a back alley
in London for feline adventures. Then hop to
Baltimore for a new hairdo, before finishing on
the plains of Africa experiencing the circle of
life. Not to be missed.

Janet was in bed asleep when I got back. I went to bed straight away, ca.9.45pm.

[Sunday 24 January 2016]