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Saturday 30 January 2016

[2016]
[Friday 29 January 2016]

Thomson Dream Cuban Revolution[i]
18:00 (depart) Havana, Cuba
10:00
[ii] Havana Highlights — Half Day takes 4hrs
[i] Between our booking this cruise and actually going on it, the name changed from “Cuban Revolution” to “Cuban Fusion”.
[ii] Meet under terminal building 10 minutes before tour departure.

Cruise News, Saturday 30th January 2016








Got up…, ca.7.50am. … We went for breakfast to the 11th-deck Sirens Restaurant. That annoying “white” with glasses came in again, throwing his weight around with the servers, and poking items about with his ungloved hands, one time even after scratching his bum. We went ashore, with a cursory passport check (no further stamps) then a security scan; and after going down the stairs, as yesterday we turned 180° to board a waiting coach under the building.


HAVANA HIGHLIGHTS – SATURDAY
Vintage American cars purring through the streets. Mile-high murals of revolutionary icons. Camera-worthy colonial monuments. If you’re looking for Havana in a nutshell, this is the trip for you. You get the real ‘rum and cigar’ authenticity of this crumbling capital topped and tailed by tours of the best bits. Your day starts in the modern quarter where sights like El Capitolio - the bigger, younger sister of the White House in America’s Washington DC, and the Malecon - the city’s famous seafront promenade await. You’ll also see Plaza de la Revolutión, Revolution Square, where Fidel Castro famously addressed millions of Cubans. Then it’s on to a cigar shop, of course cigars have been synonymous with Cuba for many years now. From here you’ll head to a viewpoint of Castillo del Moro and enjoy a complimentary cocktail in a local cocktail bar, before setting off on a guided walking tour of Havana Old Town, Habana Vieja, This UNESCO-protected part of town is real time warp stuff. All faded Spanish mansions and plazas lined with grand old churches, it’s a dusty 1950s nostalgia kick. Just so you know— This tour is unsuitable for wheelchairs and guests with walking difficulties due to the cobbled streets and high curbs.

We went again, as last night, through the tunnel, but stopped for some 20 minutes at a checkpoint. One or two other coaches passed us as we waited there. Out of the window we saw swifts wheeling around. The reason for the delay was that we were lacking a permit to allow us to go to the castle. Outside the Castillo del Moro there was a viewpoint over all the city.


Saturday 30 January 2016 10:20:52
Castillo de los Tres Reyes Magos del Morro


Saturday 30 January 2016 10:21:34
View from Castillo de los Tres Reyes Magos del Morro


Saturday 30 January 2016 10:23:14
View from Castillo de los Tres Reyes Magos del Morro


Saturday 30 January 2016 10:23:28
View from Castillo de los Tres Reyes Magos del Morro


Saturday 30 January 2016 10:25:10
View from Castillo de los Tres Reyes Magos del Morro:
The Thomson Dream


Saturday 30 January 2016 10:25:38
View from Castillo de los Tres Reyes Magos del Morro:
Fortress San Carlos de la Cabaña

Then we crossed what would originally have been a drawbridge over the deep ditch into the castle bastion, going through a “tunnel” to a yard where there was an entrance to what we were visiting: a cigar shop. This was of no interest to us: we’d have preferred to have gone all the way through the entrance for a tour of the castle itself. In the entrance a three-piece band appeared, playing “traditional” Cuban music and hoping to sell their CDs.


Saturday 30 January 2016 10:27:30
Entering the Castillo de los Tres Reyes Magos del Morro


Saturday 30 January 2016 10:28:20
Castillo de los Tres Reyes Magos del Morro


Saturday 30 January 2016 10:29:36
View from Castillo de los Tres Reyes Magos del Morro


Saturday 30 January 2016 10:30:38
Castillo de los Tres Reyes Magos del Morro


Saturday 30 January 2016 10:32:22
Castillo de los Tres Reyes Magos del Morro: Cigar shop


Saturday 30 January 2016 10:32:48
Castillo de los Tres Reyes Magos del Morro: Cigar shop


Saturday 30 January 2016 10:33:26
Castillo de los Tres Reyes Magos del Morro: Cigar shop

We re-boarded the coach and were taken back to the other side of the Entrance Canal, where we left it again for a guided walk in Old Havana. In the several Spanish colonial towns in Perú that we visited we saw the “Plaza de Armas”, so I was wondering whether Havana likewise had one. The answer was: yes. For that’s where we visited next. Just before we got to it we stopped outside a Doric temple-style monument marking the alleged spot where the city, then named San Cristóbal de la Habana, was founded in 1519.


Saturday 30 January 2016 11:14:48
El Templete


Saturday 30 January 2016 11:18:40
Hotel Santa Isabel on the east side of the Plaza de Armas


Saturday 30 January 2016 11:20:12
Plaza de Armas


Saturday 30 January 2016 11:20:42
Statue “to Carlos Manuel de Céspedes, father of the homeland and first president of the republic, the people of Cuba, on the fiftieth anniversary of independence”, in the Plaza de Armas


Saturday 30 January 2016 11:21:30

From there we entered the adjacent “Palacio de los Capitanes Generales” — the former official residence of the governors (“los Capitanes Generales”, “the Captains General”) of Havana — and had a quick look at its central courtyard.


Saturday 30 January 2016 11:25:50
Palacio de los Capitanes Generales (left); Palacio del Segundo Cabo (ahead); Plaza de Armas (off to the right)


Saturday 30 January 2016 11:27:44
Palacio de los Capitanes Generales


Saturday 30 January 2016 11:28:56
Statue of Christopher Columbus in the courtyard of the Palacio de los Capitanes Generales


Saturday 30 January 2016 11:30:14
Palacio de los Capitanes Generales


Saturday 30 January 2016 11:31:16
Sign “Plaza de Armas” on the southeast corner of the Palacio de los Capitanes Generales


Saturday 30 January 2016 11:32:04
Calle Obispo, looking west

From there we walked along the street running from the south of the Plaza de Armas past the Plaza de San Francisco. At that point we resumed the route of last night, continuing behind the Convento de San Francisco de Asís and turning first right to go to the Plaza Vieja.


Saturday 30 January 2016 11:36:40
In Calle Oficios, looking back north to the Plaza de Armas


Saturday 30 January 2016 11:36:50
Passing Casa de los Árabes in Calle Oficios, home to Havana’s only mosque


Saturday 30 January 2016 11:43:06
In Plaza de San Francisco, looking south:
Convento de San Francisco de Asís


Saturday 30 January 2016 11:44:24
In Plaza de San Francisco, looking east:
Terminal Sierra Maestra


Saturday 30 January 2016 11:46:40
In Plaza de San Francisco, looking north: Lonja del Comercio,
(the former) Chamber of Commerce


Saturday 30 January 2016 11:46:58
Bronze statue of Mercury on the dome of the Lonja del Comercio building


Saturday 30 January 2016 11:48:38
Heading south along Calle Oficios

Once again we stopped to look at the remains of the late 16th century aqueduct. The cat from last night was still there. This time it ignored the people gathered around.


Saturday 30 January 2016 11:50:14
Zanja Real (“royal excavation”) in Calle Teniente Rey, built at the end of the 16th century to supply water to Havana


Saturday 30 January 2016 11:51:16
What appears to be Zanja Real’s resident cat

We looked in a quirky, religious-themed hotel in the same street where the staff dress as monks, where indeed there are bronze sculptures of monk’s habits at the door and inside, hollow with no monks in them.


Saturday 30 January 2016 11:52:44
Hostal Los Frailes in Calle Teniente Rey


Saturday 30 January 2016 11:54:32
Hostal Los Frailes in Calle Teniente Rey


Saturday 30 January 2016 11:54:52
Hostal Los Frailes in Calle Teniente Rey


Saturday 30 January 2016 11:56:30
Hostal Los Frailes in Calle Teniente Rey


Saturday 30 January 2016 11:57:30
Plaza Vieja


Saturday 30 January 2016 11:57:40
Plaza Vieja


Saturday 30 January 2016 11:59:18
Plaza Vieja

So here we were again, back at the Santo Ángel, where I had two mojitos (Janet’s and mine) with no detectable rum kick and she had a “cola dietética”.


Saturday 30 January 2016 12:03:14
Mojito at the Santo Ángel, Plaza Vieja

From there we proceeded northwards, crossing over Calle O’Reilly (I remember “O’Reilly” being pointed out)—


Saturday 30 January 2016 12:35:12
North-western corner of the Palacio de los Capitanes Generales…


Saturday 30 January 2016 12:35:12 (detail)
…on the corner of O’Reilly and Mercaderes


Saturday 30 January 2016 12:35:22
Calle O’Reilly


Saturday 30 January 2016 12:36:16
View westwards down Calle O’Reilly


Saturday 30 January 2016 12:38:12
Interesting post box in Calle Mercaderes

—and passed an interesting mural a little farther along.

This approx 300m² mosaic mural on Mercaderes Street right across the Marqués de Arcos mansion is made up of 52 panels that depict 67 outstanding figures in the history and the arts in Cuba. The artist of the mural, Andrés Carrillo, used a novel material in Cuba that includes natural rock soaked in acrylic resin to make the small tiles. From four basic colours (brown, coral rose, black and beige), he obtained 13 shades. Many people participated in this work of art, including architect Jaime Rodríguez, sculptor Nicolás Ramos Guiardinú and students from the San Alejandro Art Academy.

lahabana.com


Saturday 30 January 2016 12:39:24
Mosaic mural in Calle Mercaderes

At the end of that street we turned left, and ahead of us on the right side was the Cathedral.


Saturday 30 January 2016 12:40:10
In Calle Empedrado, nearing the Cathedral

I lingered in the square opposite the Cathedral for a minute or two to take photos, and when I looked again the others had disappeared.


Saturday 30 January 2016 12:45:26
The Cathedral of the Virgin Mary of the Immaculate Conception


Saturday 30 January 2016 12:45:32
Plaza de la Catedral


Saturday 30 January 2016 12:45:38
Plaza de la Catedral


Saturday 30 January 2016 12:45:52
Plaza de la Catedral


Saturday 30 January 2016 12:46:00
Plaza de la Catedral


Saturday 30 January 2016 12:46:10
Plaza de la Catedral

They weren’t far away, just a few yards farther along the street, outside a small bar called “La Bodeguita del Medio”, apparently well-known for being frequented by famous people, and the supposed originator of the mojito cocktail.


Saturday 30 January 2016 12:48:08
La Bodeguita del Medio in Calle Empedrado


Saturday 30 January 2016 12:49:06
La Bodeguita del Medio in Calle Empedrado


Saturday 30 January 2016 12:49:26
La Bodeguita del Medio in Calle Empedrado

We then back-tracked to the Cathedral and turned left just before it. At the end of this street, there was a right turn and a bit farther down that street after a crossroads we rejoined the coach.


Saturday 30 January 2016 12:50:22


Saturday 30 January 2016 12:53:36
In Calle Chacón, looking westwards (i.e. to the left):
Police headquarters


Saturday 30 January 2016 12:55:04
Boarding the coach after turning right along Calle Chacón

The coach rounded the headland so that Old Havana was to our left and the Bay of Havana and beyond that the Straits of Florida were to our right. The streets of Old Havana were laid out like a grid. And what a scene! Block upon block of buildings in a state of devastation and decay! It reminded me of photos of London after the blitz. Then we turned back into the city and stopped at Revolution Square for chance to walk around. There were two buildings to the north of the square, one more or less north-west with a large image of Che Guevara in outline,[iii] and one to the north-east with a similar image of who we took to be Fidel Castro — but who looked more like Ayatollah Khomeini![iv] On the opposite (south) side of the square was a tall tower with a marble statue and the flag of Cuba at the base.

[iii] "Hasta la victoria siempre" (Until the everlasting victory, always), he says.
[iv] In fact, it’s Camilo Cienfuegos (1932–1959), revered in Cuba as a hero of the Revolution, with monuments, memorials, and an annual celebration in his honour. "Vas bien, Fidel" (You're doing fine, Fidel), he says.




Saturday 30 January 2016 13:26:42
Ministry of the Interior building in the Plaza de la Revolución, with a steel memorial of Che Guevara


Saturday 30 January 2016 13:26:52
Ministry of Information and Communications building in the Plaza de la Revolución, with a steel memorial of Camilo Cienfuegos — not Fidel Castro


Saturday 30 January 2016 13:27:12
109 m (358 ft) high memorial to national hero José Martí, shaped in cross-section like a five-pointed star


Saturday 30 January 2016 13:27:22
José Martí Memorial


Saturday 30 January 2016 13:27:32
José Martí Memorial


Saturday 30 January 2016 13:27:48
José Martí Memorial


Saturday 30 January 2016 13:31:58
José Martí Memorial


Saturday 30 January 2016 13:33:00
Marble statue of José Martí


Saturday 30 January 2016 13:33:12
José Martí Memorial

I can’t remember when we saw El Capitolio today. I can’t imagine a “Highlights of Havana” excursion without sight of El Capitolio. Perhaps it was on the way back from Revolution Square to the terminal that we passed it. We left the coach at the terminal ca.2pm and went back to the ship. We grabbed some lunch at the Sirens Restaurant. I had a half-pint of Red Stripe lager and Janet had a Fanta Zero (14:27:15). Then we went ashore again, crossed the wide road, and turned left to seek the Russian Orthodox church we’d seen as we were about to dock yesterday.


Saturday 30 January 2016 15:15:34


Saturday 30 January 2016 15:17:46
Our Lady of Kazan Orthodox Cathedral

Yesterday, the crosses appeared to lack the extra crosspiece above and the slanted crosspiece below of the Orthodox Cross.

On closer inspection, I saw that the trefoil-loop ornamentation at the ends of the limbs of each cross was repeated below with two loops — but one loop was higher than the other, giving the impression of the slanted lower crosspiece of the Orthodox Cross.



Saturday 30 January 2016 15:17:46 (detail)
Our Lady of Kazan Orthodox Cathedral

The cross over the bell-tower was in fact a standard Orthodox Cross. Janet donned her “babushka”, and we climbed the long flight of steps to enter.


Saturday 30 January 2016 15:19:20
Our Lady of Kazan Orthodox Cathedral:
Bell-tower

The bottom of the bell-tower was the entrance porch, and on the back wall of this was a large icon.


Saturday 30 January 2016 15:20:04
Our Lady of Kazan Orthodox Cathedral:
Icon in the entrance


Saturday 30 January 2016 15:20:04 (cropped)
Our Lady of Kazan Orthodox Cathedral:
Icon in the entrance


Saturday 30 January 2016 15:20:50
Our Lady of Kazan Orthodox Cathedral:
Steps to the bell-tower


Saturday 30 January 2016 15:21:00
Our Lady of Kazan Orthodox Cathedral:
Bell-tower


Saturday 30 January 2016 15:21:10
Our Lady of Kazan Orthodox Cathedral:
Entrance to the nave

On the double-leafed door to the nave was a sign saying “SILENCIO por favor”. When we encountered “Silencio” in Israel, we found that the staff made more noise than the visitors. And ironically, the only noise within was when the attendant’s mobile phone rang!


Saturday 30 January 2016 15:21:10 (detail)
“SILENCIO por favor”


Saturday 30 January 2016 15:24:22
Our Lady of Kazan Orthodox Cathedral


Saturday 30 January 2016 15:25:54
Our Lady of Kazan Orthodox Cathedral:
Iconostasis


Saturday 30 January 2016 15:26:02
Our Lady of Kazan Orthodox Cathedral:
Iconostasis

As we left I said, “¡Gracias!” to the attendant, then as an afterthought, added, “Спасибо!” A man passed us as we stood at the top of the steps and crossed himself Orthodox-fashion. I got talking also to a couple who were also visiting the church. This was the first Orthodox church they’d been in, and I commented that it was quite typical of its kind. Janet and I then turned into Old Havana and wandered through the streets. There were quite a lot of children playing in the streets, and youths in small groups, but no-one bothered us and we didn’t feel intimidated at all.


Saturday 30 January 2016 15:34:16
Views of Old Havana


Saturday 30 January 2016 15:35:40
Views of Old Havana


Saturday 30 January 2016 15:40:40
Views of Old Havana


Saturday 30 January 2016 15:47:44
Views of Old Havana


Saturday 30 January 2016 15:48:24
Views of Old Havana


Saturday 30 January 2016 15:48:56
Views of Old Havana

We found our way to the bar/restaurant we visited yesterday, and had a couple of rounds of drinks. We were charged more than twice the amount of yesterday, when we had one round, but it was still inexpensive.


Saturday 30 January 2016 16:09:28
Back at the Mesón de la Flota

We got a £10 note for the remainder of our currency at the change counters. We said goodbye to the officials in the terminal and expressed our regret to be leaving, and boarded the ship just before 5pm.


Saturday 30 January 2016 16:56:08
Farewell to Havana

We returned to the cabin, going out again to the Lido Restaurant a short time before they started serving dinner at 6pm. I had a pint of Strongbow cider and Janet had a Fanta Zero (17:52:28). We had put out to sea when we finished and had no fewer than three turns of the deck.… At 8pm we headed for the Broadway to bag our front-row seats for the 8.30pm show, which we enjoyed immensely.

Pop Goes The West End
8.30pm & 10.30pm Broadway, deck 8
Iconic stars of the pop world. Abba, Rod
Stewart, Madness and Queen all took their
music from the pop charts to the stages of the
West End. Tonight, we pay tribute to that
music, concert-style.

I had a Campari and soda and Janet had a Fanta Zero (20:03:16).… We went to bed ca.10.30pm, but the noise from the Medusa lounge below was intrusive.

[Sunday 31 January 2016]



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