John Edward Cooper’s Notes

[i] The original information on the website was:

This morning we visit the unique village of Alberobello, famous for its Trulli buildings. As we travel, the countryside becomes more undulating and open with patches of oak forest, bisected by dry-stone walls, incredibly scenic it is rather reminiscent of Tuscany. You’ll begin to notice the distinctive whitewashed stone huts with conical roofs dotted across this bucolic landscape; these are Trulli, traditional local houses unique to Apulia.
Extraordinarily Alberobello, is completely comprised of Trulli and we explore this fascinating townscape, learning all about their construction and intriguing history. Many are adorned with large symbols, some religious, some pagan and some celestial: you really are stepping back in time.
We return to our hotel this afternoon to relax or you may wish to re-visit the ancient town of Matera. This evening we will dine in a local restaurant in the historic old town of Matera where we will sample the local cuisine.

I have a lump on the left cheek just in front of the ear, and one on the top of the head, which I attribute to the mosquito I heard yesterday morning. After breakfast, etc., we joined the coach at 9am to go to Alberobello. En route, Paola handed out maps of Alberobello to enable us to find our way around. The 43-mile journey there took ca.1½ hours.


Click on the image to enlarge.

When we passed dry-stone walls Paola pointed them out and described their construction, seemingly unaware that they were a familiar sight in the UK. As we approached Alberobello we started to see Trulli here and there in the fields and by the roadside, dry stone huts with conical roofs of stone. Paola said they originated because they could be quickly dismantled. Landowners, wishing to avoid paying property taxes, would get their workers to demolish their dwellings when the taxi inspector was visiting. If so, the trulli, with which Alberobello is replete, must be a later, permanent development of that. We stopped at a parking place in Via Indipendenza (just off the bottom right of the map), and walked the short distance into town. There was a market, with lots of stalls set up in the wide street running east–west that we came to, Largo Martellotta, and others set up in adjoining streets to the north. Janet and I went in Clara Petra, a “caffetteria / gelateria / lounge bar” on the south side of Largo Martellotta, and I had a caffè americano and Janet two diet colas (10:56 on the till receipt). Then we went up one of the streets leading off Largo Martellotta, through a district of trulli called Rione Monti (“A” on the map) to visit the Church of St. Anthony (“H” on the map).


Thursday 22 September 2016 — 11:12:12
On the way up to Chiesa di Sant’Antonio


Thursday 22 September 2016 — 11:13:16
On the way up to Chiesa di Sant’Antonio

On the way, an older woman invited us into her shop, and to go up to the roof where there was a panoramic view of the town. We accepted her invitation, although we didn’t see any of her wares that we wanted to buy.


Thursday 22 September 2016 — 11:19:16
Views from the rooftop


Thursday 22 September 2016 — 11:20:02
Views from the rooftop: Basilica dei Santi Medici on the horizon to the north


Thursday 22 September 2016 — 11:20:34
Views from the rooftop: Chiesa di Sant’Antonio in the opposite direction

The Church of St. Anthony (Chiesa di Sant’Antonio), built 1926–1927, restored 2004, is labelled on the map “Chiesa a Trullo” because it has a number of trullo-style roof features, including one for a “dome” and another atop the bell-tower.


Thursday 22 September 2016 — 11:23:36
Chiesa di Sant’Antonio


Thursday 22 September 2016 — 11:26:10
Chiesa di Sant’Antonio


Thursday 22 September 2016 — 11:27:52
Chiesa di Sant’Antonio: interesting arrangement of arches and vaults


Thursday 22 September 2016 — 11:27:52 (detail)
Chiesa di Sant’Antonio: Giotto-style angels either side of the crucifix


Thursday 22 September 2016 — 11:28:14
Chiesa di Sant’Antonio: trullo-style dome


Thursday 22 September 2016 — 11:29:02
Chiesa di Sant’Antonio


Thursday 22 September 2016 — 11:29:02 (detail)
Chiesa di Sant’Antonio


Thursday 22 September 2016 — 11:29:26
Chiesa di Sant’Antonio


Thursday 22 September 2016 — 11:31:02
Chiesa di Sant’Antonio: shrine of Padre Pio da Pietrelcina (Francesco Forgione, 1887–1968)


Thursday 22 September 2016 — 11:31:26
Chiesa di Sant’Antonio: wall plaque


Thursday 22 September 2016 — 11:31:40
Chiesa di Sant’Antonio: font
“…a spring of water welling up to eternal life” (John 4:14)

From there we returned downwards, along Via Monte San Michele.


Thursday 22 September 2016 — 11:37:24
Descending northwards
Note the whitewashed symbols on the roofs of the trulli.

Outside one shop, were lots of models of trulli, and we bought a tiny one for €8 to go on our memorabilia cabinet at home (11:43 on the receipt).


Trullo from Alberobello in Miniatura di Annese Orazio, Via Monte San Michele 34, Alberobello


Thursday 22 September 2016 — 11:46:00
Plaque in a shop window, illustrating different trullo pinnacles and whitewash roof-symbols

We crossed over Largo Martellotta and made our way up a flight of steps to a viewpoint, Belvedere Santa Lucia (“D” on the map).


Thursday 22 September 2016 — 11:48:10
Steps up to Belvedere Santa Lucia


Thursday 22 September 2016 — 11:50:44
Views from Belvedere Santa Lucia


Thursday 22 September 2016 — 11:51:00
Views from Belvedere Santa Lucia

From there we headed eastwards (more or less) to have a look at the other trulli district: Rione Aia Piccola (“B” on the map). On the way, though, I got distracted by a sign over a small gateway on the right-hand side of Via Brigata Regina: “[word obliterated] Belvedere Giardini. Pub.”


Thursday 22 September 2016 — 11:55:20
Entrance to “… Belvedere Giardini. Pub.”

I entered, and as well as leading past the Bar Belvedere, it wound into a park. But time was passing, and the path took us away from the trulli and didn’t lead us anywhere we wanted to go, so I turned back, and we resumed our way along Via Brigata Regina then wandered through a few streets of Trulli in Rione Aia Piccola. Some were dwellings, others were open for visitors. There was a tour party at one, and we decided not to go in.


Thursday 22 September 2016 — 11:59:22
Walking back


Thursday 22 September 2016 — 12:05:04
Trulli in Rione Aia Piccola


Thursday 22 September 2016 — 12:06:08
Trulli in Rione Aia Piccola


Thursday 22 September 2016 — 12:08:30
Trulli in Rione Aia Piccola

The way seemed fairly simple, on the map, to the Casa D’ Amore (“C”), the first permanent building in the town; but the reality didn’t match the lines on the map, and I briefly got us lost. However, we wandered into Piazza del Popolo, where we found it at the northern corner, set back somewhat in another little square, Piazza Ferdinando IV.


Thursday 22 September 2016 — 12:25:42
Casa D’ Amore


Thursday 22 September 2016 — 12:26:26
Casa D’ Amore
“By royal authority this [is] the first built, AD 1797”

I thought “Casa D’ Amore” must mean “house of love”, but I later gathered that Francesco D’Amore was the owner, the first citizen of Alberobello to build a house using mortar. Before the official recognition of the city in 1797 by King Ferdinand IV of Naples, it was forbidden by the local Counts to erect permanent buildings; dry stone had to be used. From Piazza del Popolo we went approximately northwards, along Corso Vittorio Emanuele to see the Basilica (“I” on the map) — in fact, a “minor basilica” — dedicated to the “Santi Medici” (“holy doctors”) Saints Cosmas and Damian. We found it closed, though. We went in a nearby bar for me to have some lunch. I chose a ciabatta crudo for €4, which was served hot, and I had a couple of bottles of Nastro Azzurro at €2.50 each. Janet had a couple of Coca Cola Zero at €3.00 each. (It pisses her off that they charge more for coloured water in Italy than for beer!) There was no coperto here, so “il conto” came to €15.00 (13:11, according to the till receipt).


Thursday 22 September 2016 — 12:39:42
Central Bar, Corso Vittorio Emanuele 49, Alberobello


Thursday 22 September 2016 — 13:16:20
Basilica minore dei Santi Medici


Thursday 22 September 2016 — 13:18:38
Basilica minore dei Santi Medici: information board


Thursday 22 September 2016 — 13:19:22
Basilica minore dei Santi Medici: detail from the information board

We proceeded by the left side of the Basilica along Via del Gesù to the largest of the trulli, the two-storey Trullo Sovrano (“E” on the map).


Thursday 22 September 2016 — 13:21:14
Basilica minore dei Santi Medici seen from Via del Gesù


Thursday 22 September 2016 — 13:22:20
Trullo Sovrano at the end of Via del Gesù


Thursday 22 September 2016 — 13:22:50
The rear of the Basilica minore dei Santi Medici seen from Via del Gesù


Thursday 22 September 2016 — 13:24:56
Trullo Sovrano


Thursday 22 September 2016 — 13:25:50
Trullo Sovrano: information board


Thursday 22 September 2016 — 13:26:16
Trullo Sovrano: detail from the information board


Thursday 22 September 2016 — 13:27:58
View back along Via del Gesù


Thursday 22 September 2016 — 13:29:00
Trullo Sovrano: entrance


Thursday 22 September 2016 — 13:29:12
Trullo Sovrano: lunette above the entrance

We paid a modest fee to visit the museum there.


Thursday 22 September 2016 — 13:31:36
Trullo Sovrano: rooms on the ground floor


Thursday 22 September 2016 — 13:31:48
Trullo Sovrano: rooms on the ground floor


Thursday 22 September 2016 — 13:32:12
Trullo Sovrano: rooms on the ground floor


Thursday 22 September 2016 — 13:32:34
Trullo Sovrano: rooms on the ground floor


Thursday 22 September 2016 — 13:32:56
Trullo Sovrano: rooms on the ground floor


Thursday 22 September 2016 — 13:34:32
Trullo Sovrano: rooms on the ground floor


Thursday 22 September 2016 — 13:34:44
Trullo Sovrano: rooms on the ground floor


Thursday 22 September 2016 — 13:35:48
Trullo Sovrano: rooms on the ground floor


Thursday 22 September 2016 — 13:36:32
Trullo Sovrano: rooms on the ground floor


Thursday 22 September 2016 — 13:36:46
Trullo Sovrano: rooms on the ground floor


Thursday 22 September 2016 — 13:37:22
Trullo Sovrano: rooms on the ground floor


Thursday 22 September 2016 — 13:38:36
Trullo Sovrano: rear of the trullo seen from the back yard


Thursday 22 September 2016 — 13:39:54
Trullo Sovrano: rooms on the ground floor


Thursday 22 September 2016 — 13:40:24
Trullo Sovrano: rooms on the ground floor


Thursday 22 September 2016 — 13:42:38
Trullo Sovrano: rooms on the ground floor; (left:) stairs to the upper floor


Thursday 22 September 2016 — 13:43:06
Trullo Sovrano: stairs to the upper floor


Thursday 22 September 2016 — 13:44:06
Trullo Sovrano: rooms on the upper floor


Thursday 22 September 2016 — 13:44:46
Trullo Sovrano: rooms on the upper floor


Thursday 22 September 2016 — 13:45:00
Trullo Sovrano: rooms on the upper floor


Thursday 22 September 2016 — 13:45:24
Trullo Sovrano: rooms on the upper floor
Cf. “13:29:00”; this is the window above the entrance.


Thursday 22 September 2016 — 13:46:10
Trullo Sovrano: rooms on the upper floor


Thursday 22 September 2016 — 13:47:00
Trullo Sovrano: the stairs of “13:43:06”

Then we made our way back—


Thursday 22 September 2016 — 13:53:36
Basilica minore dei Santi Medici


Thursday 22 September 2016 — 13:54:50
Façade of Basilica minore dei Santi Medici


Thursday 22 September 2016 — 13:55:28
Façade of Basilica minore dei Santi Medici


Thursday 22 September 2016 — 13:55:36
Façade of Basilica minore dei Santi Medici


Thursday 22 September 2016 — 13:55:50
Façade of Basilica minore dei Santi Medici


Thursday 22 September 2016 — 13:56:12
Basilica minore dei Santi Medici: lunette above the portal


Thursday 22 September 2016 — 13:56:26
Basilica minore dei Santi Medici


Thursday 22 September 2016 — 13:57:16
Basilica minore dei Santi Medici


Thursday 22 September 2016 — 13:57:26
Basilica minore dei Santi Medici


Thursday 22 September 2016 — 13:57:42
Basilica minore dei Santi Medici

—along Corso Vittorio Emanuele, Vico Tenente Cucci and Largo Martellotta into Via Indipendenza, to be back at the coach for the 2.30pm rendezvous.


Thursday 22 September 2016 — 14:03:32
Last view of the trulli of Rione Monti

It was pouring with rain when we got back to the hotel, a little after 4pm. Transferred 72 photos from my camera to the WD Elements HDD (16:13–16:16). Viewed them in Windows Photo Viewer, rotating 17 that needed it (16:20–16:24).… It had stopped raining at 5.45pm when we left on the coach to go to Matera. We were given free time before we would meet up again at 7.25pm. Although we were in Via del Corso, a street of “posh” shops (e.g. Swarovski), we managed to find a convenience store not far off it, where Janet got a 2ℓ bottle of Fanta orangeade for a mere €1.35, for her Saturday “off-diet” day. Then we went to the Lounge Caffè in Via del Corso, just across the road from the rendezvous point, and Janet had a Coca Cola Zero and I, when shown what was available, chose what the man called “birra rossa”: a Leffe Radieuse (“radiant”), 8.2% a.b.v., served with quite a large quantity of “nibbles” (olives, crisps and peanuts).


Thursday 22 September 2016 — 18:48:52
Leffe Radieuse and Coca Cola Zero at Lounge Caffè, Via del Corso 60, Matera

We all met up across the road, then Paola led the way the short distance to Osteria L’Arco, another establishment with (the seemingly obligatory!) vaulted ceilings.


Thursday 22 September 2016 — 20:15:50
Osteria L’Arco, Via delle Beccherie 49, Matera

I had a small bottle of Primitivo, which I enjoyed almost but not quite as much as the Negroamaro of the other evening. Despite eating all the “nibbles” earlier, I found I had sufficient appetite for the roast pork fillet in Primitivo sauce. Just after arriving back at the hotel, and having succeeded without undue trouble to unlock the room door, I transferred the two further photos of the evening from my camera to the WD Elements HDD (22:13). We went to bed ca.11pm.

[Friday 23 September 2016]