[2017]
[Tuesday 5 September 2017]
Granada
Corona De Granada Hotel, Granada
- GRANADA & THE ALHAMBRA
Granada itself has one of the world’s most naturally dramatic locations, nestling below the snow-capped mountains soaring majestically to a height of 11,000 feet. It is the perfect setting for a perfect monument – the extraordinary Alhambra. So individual in its setting, so rich in its history and so perfect in its design, this was the high point in Moorish culture. It is not just a palace though, some of it is a fortress, and much is given over to some exquisite formal gardens full of roses and fountains, giving an incredible impression of peace and tranquillity.
Today we will have a guided tour of this classic building, with entrance fees included, which for many people will be the highlight of the holiday, and you will have time to explore the city as you wish. There is a myriad of twisting streets, the old Moorish quarter and the gypsy area. Full of tiny unique shops, with seemingly every balcony sprouting flowers in a profusion of colour adding a finishing touch to the whole scene.
There can be nothing better than taking a stroll through these streets, unchanged for centuries some of them so small, they were designed for mules with the pavements made of pebbles set into mortar. Granada also boasts some of the most distinctive old bars in Spain, many of them lined with antique tiles where taking a drink and a few tapas can be an excuse for a unique experience.
There was an early start scheduled for the Alhambra today, so the alarm clock sounded just after 6am. We were breakfasted and back downstairs again for the 8am departure of the coach. “It was just getting light so was nice and cool,”
Janet commented. 8am CEST at that longitude is 6am solar time. When we told Manuel that we’d found the restaurants closed yesterday down the street that he’d marked on the map, he replied that they were open when he went there. But that was later in the evening than when we went; for earlier yesterday, Manuel had asked for four or five volunteers to accompany him to the Alhambra to assist with obtaining tickets. For some reason the number of tickets that any individual could order was limited, perhaps to ten each. And the process took a long time; they hadn’t got back to the hotel till after 8pm.
Bird’s eye view of the Alhambra and the Generalife Click
to enlarge.
image © alhambra-patronato.es
text mine
When we arrived at the parking lot and “entrance pavilion” (ticket office, information centre, and souvenir shop), we were split into five groups of about ten each, and each group was assigned to a guide; ours was called Laura.
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 08:22:08
Alhambra: Entrance Pavilion
She led us along the wooded road below the embankment of the southern wall of the complex, till we reached the Cart Gate, through which we entered.
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 08:41:46
Alhambra: waterfall on the embankment of the southern wall
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 08:43:44
Alhambra: southern wall
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 08:44:00
Alhambra: Cart Gate
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 08:45:18
Alhambra: Church of Santa María de la Alhambra
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 08:45:54
Alhambra: Palace of Charles V
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 08:46:22
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 08:47:00
Alhambra
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 08:47:28
Alhambra: Gate of Justice
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 08:48:08
Alhambra: Gate of Justice
We learned yesterday that Córdoba was taken in the Reconquista in 1236. It was a surprise to learn that work on the Alhambra here hadn’t even started then! Ruins of an earlier fortress were renovated and rebuilt in the mid-13th century by the emir of Granada Mohammed ben Al-Ahmar, who built its current palace and walls. The “iconic” date 1492 for the
Reconquista was when the emir Muhammad XII surrendered Granada to the besieging army of Ferdinand II of Aragon and Isabella I of Castile. We first visited the large Palace of Charles V, the same Holy Roman Emperor as the one mentioned yesterday in connection with the Renaissance nave and transept inserted within the former mosque in Córdoba. The Palace was constructed in 1527, but remained unfinished — indeed, wasn’t roofed till 1957. It was square, as viewed from the outside; so the fact that the courtyard within was
CIRCULAR came as a surprise. It was surrounded by two storeys of colonnaded galleries. Laura mentioned the good acoustics of the place, and invited someone to come forward and demonstrate this fact. I responded, unaccountably, with a rendition of the tenor solo from the fourth movement of Beethoven’s Symphony №9 in D minor!
- Froh, froh, wie seine Sonnen, seine Sonnen fliegen—
Froh, wie seine Sonnen fliegen—
Durch des Himmels prächt’gen Plan,
Laufet, Brüder, eure Bahn,
Laufet, Brüder, eure Bahn,
Freudig, wie ein Held zum Siegen—
Wie ein Held zum Siegen…
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 08:50:38
Alhambra: western façade of the Palace of Charles V
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 08:50:50
Alhambra: western façade of the Palace of Charles V
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 08:51:04
Alhambra: western façade of the Palace of Charles V
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 08:52:42
Alhambra: inner circular patio of the Palace of Charles V
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 08:53:14
Alhambra: inner circular patio of the Palace of Charles V
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 08:53:14 (detail)
Alhambra: our guide Laura
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 08:53:34
Alhambra: inner circular patio of the Palace of Charles V
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 08:54:24
Alhambra: inner circular patio of the Palace of Charles V, coffered ceiling of the upper gallery
Then we passed through the nearby gatehouse called the Wine Gate and visited the oldest and most “fort”-like part of the complex, the Alcazaba. Like “Alcázar”
(al-Qasr), the word “Alcazaba” had a familiar ring to it (al-Qasbah, citadel);
cf. 19
March 2014, when on a visit to Rabat, Morocco, we visited the “Kasbah” (as I spelled it then).
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 08:58:20
Alhambra: Wine Gate
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 08:59:00
Alhambra: Wine Gate
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 09:00:32
Alhambra: Wine Gate
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 09:00:46
Alhambra: Alcazaba
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 09:02:28
Alhambra: Alcazaba
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 09:03:58
Alhambra: views from the Alcazaba
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 09:04:28
Alhambra: views from the Alcazaba
We entered the interior of the fortress, where we saw the remains of residences of the military personnel who had been stationed there, work areas, a bath, a cistern,
etc.[i]
- [i] On the map this area is labelled “Plaza de Armas”, but it didn’t resemble any of the
plazas de armas that I’ve seen in former Spanish colonial cities: an open space for parades near the town hall, law court, church,
etc.
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 09:05:00
Alhambra: Alcazaba
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 09:05:36
Alhambra: Alcazaba
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 09:06:08
Alhambra: Plaza de Armas in the Alcazaba
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 09:06:46
Alhambra: Alcazaba
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 09:09:20
Alhambra: Plaza de Armas in the Alcazaba — bath and water-channel
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 09:09:38
Alhambra: Plaza de Armas in the Alcazaba — cistern
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 09:10:44
Alhambra: Plaza de Armas in the Alcazaba
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 09:11:14
Alhambra: Alcazaba, views from the northern side
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 09:11:22
Alhambra: Alcazaba, views from the northern side
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 09:11:40
Alhambra: views from the Alcazaba
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 09:12:28
Alhambra: views from the Alcazaba — Granada Cathedral
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 09:13:02
Alhambra: Alcazaba, views from the northern side
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 09:15:54
Alhambra: Alcazaba, views from the northern side
We left the Alcazaba by way of a garden on the southern rampart.
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 09:17:48
Alhambra: Alcazaba, views from the southern side
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 09:18:24
Alhambra: Alcazaba, views from the southern side
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 09:18:58
Alhambra: Alcazaba, Garden of the Ramparts
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 09:20:18
Alhambra: Alcazaba, Garden of the Ramparts
Crossing the plaza in front of the Alcazaba northwards, and skirting round the far corner of the Palace of Charles V, we visited the Nasrid Palaces to the left, entering first the “Mexuar” — from an Arabic word for a place for consultation; so, a council chamber. Beyond it was the “Oratory”, a place for
prayer.[ii]
- [ii] When I studied the photos and looked at a plan of the Nasrid Palaces, I noticed that the walls of the Oratory aren’t parallel to the north-facing wall of the Mexuar. At the right (approximately east) end of the Oratory is what looks like a mihrab; and indeed, when one faces that, the angle at which the Oratory is offset points one in the qibla direction.
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 09:22:44
Alhambra: Alcazaba, Square of the Cisterns
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 09:29:36
Alhambra: entering the Nasrid Palaces
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 09:30:56
Alhambra: the Mexuar
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 09:31:10
Alhambra: the Mexuar
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 09:31:22
Alhambra: the Mexuar
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 09:32:20
Alhambra: the Mexuar
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 09:33:06
Alhambra: the Mexuar
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 09:33:56
Alhambra: the Mexuar
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 09:34:58
Alhambra: the Mexuar and (beyond:) the Oratory
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 09:35:34
Alhambra: the Oratory with its mihrab (right)
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 09:36:16
Alhambra: the Mexuar
We didn’t leave the Mexuar the way we came in; we turned right and entered the courtyard next to it. I’m not sure whether a low, dark room off there was a prison cell; that seems possible if the Mexuar was also the location where justice was dispensed.
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 09:36:58
Alhambra: Mexuar Court, south end
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 09:37:42
Alhambra: Mexuar Court, south end
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 09:38:52
Alhambra: leading off the Mexuar Court
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 09:39:40
Alhambra: Mexuar Court, north end
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 09:39:58
Alhambra: Mexuar Court
Through the left door in the south end of the Mexuar Court we proceeded to the Court of the Myrtle Trees—
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 09:41:36
Alhambra: passing through to the Court of the Myrtles
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 09:42:10
Alhambra: entering the Court of the Myrtles
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 09:42:44
Alhambra: alcove by the Court of the Myrtles
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 09:42:44 (detail)
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 09:42:54
Alhambra: alcove by the Court of the Myrtles
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 09:43:30
Alhambra: Court of the Myrtles, south end
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 09:44:08
Alhambra: Court of the Myrtles, south end; (beyond:) Palace of Charles V
—and going through arched portals at the north end of the Court of the Myrtle Trees we entered the Hall of the Ambassadors in the Comares Tower.
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 09:45:32
Alhambra: passing through to the Hall of the Ambassadors
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 09:45:44
Alhambra: passing through to the Hall of the Ambassadors
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 09:46:40
Alhambra: Hall of the Ambassadors
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 09:46:50
Alhambra: Hall of the Ambassadors
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 09:47:02
Alhambra: Hall of the Ambassadors
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 09:48:32
Alhambra: Hall of the Ambassadors
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 09:49:04
Alhambra: Hall of the Ambassadors
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 09:49:36
Alhambra: Hall of the Ambassadors
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 09:49:50
Alhambra: Hall of the Ambassadors
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 09:50:04
Alhambra: Hall of the Ambassadors
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 09:51:04
Alhambra: returning to the Court of the Myrtles
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 09:53:32
Alhambra: Court of the Myrtles, north end; (beyond:) Comares Tower, in which is the Hall of the Ambassadors
Towards the south-east corner of the Court of the Myrtle Trees was a way through to the Court of the Lions.
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 09:56:42
Alhambra: about to pass through to the Court of the Lions
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 09:56:42 (detail)
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 09:57:26
Alhambra: approaching the Court of the Lions
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 09:57:36
Alhambra: approaching the Court of the Lions
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 09:59:30
Alhambra: Court of the Lions
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 10:00:58
Alhambra: Court of the Lions
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 10:01:34
Alhambra: Court of the Lions
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 10:02:20
Alhambra: Court of the Lions
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 10:02:38
Alhambra: Court of the Lions
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 10:02:46
Alhambra: Court of the Lions
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 10:03:16
Alhambra: Court of the Lions, north side
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 10:03:16 (detail)
Alhambra: Court of the Lions
From the south side of the Court of the Lions, we entered the Hall of the Abencerrajes with a “stalactite-vaulted” ceiling in the form of an eight-pointed star. It got its name because, so the story goes, the Abencerrajes family was slaughtered there after one of their sons, having fallen in love with a daughter of the royal family, was caught in the act of climbing up to her window.
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 10:03:56
Alhambra: door leading to the Hall of the Abencerrajes, on the south side of the Court of the Lions
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 10:03:56 (detail)
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 10:04:18
Alhambra: door leading to the Hall of the Abencerrajes
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 10:04:18 (edit)
Alhambra: door leading to the Hall of the Abencerrajes
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 10:04:26
Alhambra: approaching the Hall of the Abencerrajes
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 10:04:52
Alhambra: Hall of the Abencerrajes
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 10:05:12
Alhambra: Hall of the Abencerrajes
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 10:05:24
Alhambra: Hall of the Abencerrajes
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 10:05:48
Alhambra: returning to the Court of the Lions
At the east end of the Court of the Lions, we passed through the Hall of the Kings, actually three square rooms adjacent to each other, before entering the Hall of the Two Sisters on the opposite side of the Court of the Lions from the Hall of the Abencerrajes. This similarly had a “stalactite-vaulted” ceiling, only in the form of an octagon not a star. It also had more portals leading out of it than the Hall of the Abencerrajes’ single one (perhaps a feature that made the latter more suitable for the use to which it was allegedly put!).
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 10:06:48
Alhambra: Hall of the Kings, at the east end of the Court of the Lions
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 10:07:22
Alhambra: Hall of the Kings
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 10:07:30
Alhambra: Hall of the Kings
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 10:07:40
Alhambra: Hall of the Kings, looking north
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 10:08:30
Alhambra: east colonnade of the Court of the Lions; (right:) Hall of the Kings
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 10:09:30
Alhambra: Hall of the Two Sisters, on the north side of the Court of the Lions
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 10:10:04
Alhambra: Hall of the Two Sisters
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 10:10:20
Alhambra: Hall of the Two Sisters
We continued through the Hall of the Two Sisters into the Ajimeces Gallery on its far side. On the far side of this was an alcove, the Mirador of Daraxa, looking out over the Daraxa Garden.
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 10:10:56
Alhambra: Ajimeces Gallery
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 10:11:02
Alhambra: Mirador of Daraxa
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 10:11:22
Alhambra: view from the Mirador of Daraxa
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 10:11:34
Alhambra: stained-glass false roof of the Mirador of Daraxa
We went left, then right, along a corridor with windows on the right side overlooking the Daraxa Garden. This led to the apartments of the Emperor Charles V, which included a room with a stone plaque: “Washington Irving wrote his Tales of the Alhambra in these rooms in the year 1829.”
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 10:12:08
Alhambra: leaving the Ajimeces Gallery
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 10:12:22
Alhambra: corridor to Charles V’s Apartments
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 10:12:46
Alhambra: corridor to Charles V’s Apartments
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 10:13:08
Alhambra: view right of the Daraxa Garden
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 10:13:38
Alhambra: Charles V’s Apartments
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 10:13:50
Alhambra: Charles V’s Apartments
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 10:14:06
Alhambra: Charles V’s Apartments
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 10:14:54
Alhambra: “Washington Irving wrote his Tales of the Alhambra in these rooms in the year 1829”
From there we went left across a pillared and balustraded walkway connecting two buildings, with a view to the right (north) over the city and to the left over a courtyard. There were stairs down to a similar walkway beneath it, from where there were a few steps down to the courtyard, the “Window Grille” Court.
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 10:15:12
Alhambra: Charles V’s Apartments
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 10:15:22
Alhambra: viewpoint northwards
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 10:15:52
Alhambra: viewpoint northwards
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 10:16:14
Alhambra
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 10:16:36
Alhambra
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 10:16:56
Alhambra
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 10:17:04
Alhambra: Window Grille Court
From there we went through a building to the Daraxa Garden, the one seen earlier from the Mirador of Daraxa in the Ajimeces Gallery. Indeed, we passed through a horseshoe arch in the projecting structure or small tower that housed the Mirador of Daraxa. The exit from the Daraxa Garden took us out of the Nasrid Palaces.
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 10:17:56
Alhambra: Daraxa Garden
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 10:18:24
Alhambra: external structure of the Mirador of Daraxa
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 10:18:44
Alhambra: stained-glass false roof of the Mirador of Daraxa
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 10:19:10
Alhambra: Daraxa Garden
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 10:19:24
Alhambra: (left:) Partal Palace
We went southwards through the gardens of the Partal Palace, where we had a break for ¼-hour or so. Then we resumed our tour, passing the Church of Santa María de la Alhambra and heading eastwards along Calle Real de la Alhambra, more or less parallel to the southern wall of the Alhambra on our right.
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 10:20:14
Alhambra: Partal Gardens
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 10:21:16
Alhambra
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 10:43:28
Alhambra: Church of Santa María de la Alhambra, seen from Calle Real de la Alhambra
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 10:44:18
Alhambra: Church of Santa María de la Alhambra, seen from Calle Real de la Alhambra
Laura pointed out two hotels actually within the Alhambra site, as we passed them:
Hotel América Granada; and one of the state-run hotels known as “paradores” (singular: “parador”) — luxury hotels typically located (as here) in converted historic buildings.
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 10:45:22
Alhambra: Hotel América Granada, Calle Real de la Alhambra 53
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 10:46:24
Alhambra: a state-run “parador”
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 10:46:24 (detail)
Alhambra: “Parador de Turismo San Francisco”
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 10:47:10
Alhambra: ruins of the Palace of the Abencerrajes
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 10:47:42
Alhambra: ruins of the Palace of the Abencerrajes
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 10:48:20
Alhambra: proceeding along Calle Real de la Alhambra
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 10:49:16
Alhambra: Parador de Turismo San Francisco, Calle Real de la Alhambra
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 10:51:02
Alhambra: “Gate of the Seven Storeys”
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 10:51:30
Alhambra: looking back to a watchtower to the west of the Gate of the Seven Storeys
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 10:54:34
Alhambra: Royal Water Channel and Water Tower
At the eastern point of the Alhambra we crossed a bridge over what looked a defensive ditch, then turned left in a more northerly direction into the estate of the Generalife, across a valley from the Alhambra. We walked through extensive gardens before reaching the Palace of the Generalife itself.
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 10:55:16
Crossing from the Alhambra to the Generalife
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 10:56:02
Generalife: entering the site
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 10:58:42
Alhambra: Tower of the Princesses
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 11:00:42
Pomegranate. Granada is Spanish for “pomegranate”.
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 11:01:54
Generalife: lower gardens
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 11:02:30
Generalife: lower gardens
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 11:02:42
Generalife: lower gardens
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 11:03:04
Generalife: lower gardens
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 11:03:30
Generalife: lower gardens
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 11:04:02
Generalife: lower gardens
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 11:05:10
Generalife: lower gardens
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 11:05:52
Generalife: lower gardens
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 11:06:02
Generalife: lower gardens
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 11:06:58
Generalife: lower gardens
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 11:08:06
Alhambra, seen from the lower gardens of the Generalife
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 11:08:06 (detail 1)
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 11:08:06 (detail 2)
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 11:08:06 (detail 3)
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 11:09:02
Generalife: lower gardens
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 11:09:52
Generalife: lower gardens
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 11:10:56
Generalife: lower gardens
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 11:11:36
Generalife: lower gardens
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 11:11:56
Generalife: lower gardens
The entrance in the south-west corner gave access to two courtyards, before we entered an inner gate (or door, more like) in a tower, and proceeded up stairs to a long garden with waterspouts playing into a central channel, along which we walked in a north-westerly direction to the building I’ve broadly called
“NORTH Pavilion”.
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 11:14:12
Entering the “Palace of the Generalife”
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 11:15:28
Generalife: in the Court of Dismounting
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 11:15:56
Generalife: inner gate of the Palace
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 11:16:22
Generalife
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 11:17:00
Generalife: Court of the Water Channel
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 11:18:32
Generalife: North Pavilion
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 11:19:18
Generalife: Court of the Water Channel
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 11:20:08
Generalife: Mirador of Ismail I in the North Pavilion
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 11:20:38
Generalife: Royal Chamber in the North Pavilion
We left the North Pavilion through another garden more or less north of the first one, which again had waterspouts playing into water, leaving the palace by going up a flight of steps, then winding down along a stepped path following its bounding wall. We found ourselves walking down a pebble-paved promenade between oleanders trained into arches overhead, and following that an avenue of very tall cypress trees, till we got back to this morning’s starting point.
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 11:21:32
Generalife: “Court of the Sultana”
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 11:22:22
Generalife: Court of the Sultana, looking back to the North Pavilion
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 11:23:40
Leaving the Palace of the Generalife
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 11:25:02
Leaving the Palace of the Generalife
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 11:26:28
Generalife: Promenade of the Oleanders
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 11:31:54
Generalife: Promenade of the Cypress Trees
The day had started to get hot, but we ascertained from Manuel that the walk down to the town centre would be through forest shade; so we decided to make our own way there, rather than get on the coach. We actually overtook Laura going that way.
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 11:53:54
Fountain in the Alhambra Woods
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 12:00:34
In Cuesta de Gomérez, looking back
The Alhambra Woods ended at a stone gate, the Gate of the Pomegranates, in a wall branching southwards from the wall around the Alcazaba; and passing through it, we continued along the shop-lined street westward for another 300 or 350 yards till we got to the Plaza Nueva. The map Manuel gave us said, “Plaza Nueva (Restaurants).” So we looked around, and chose one on the opposite side of the square. I had a couple of beers. I thought the “pizza diabolo” would be like the “pizza diavola” I had in Malcesine, with a lot of pepperoni and chopped chillies on it, but it had quite thick cheese with red chilli sauce squirted all over it.
Janet had her usual salad “sin salsa” and a bread bun.
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 12:00:48
Gate of the Pomegranates, Cuesta de Gomérez, Granada
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 12:01:36
Cuesta de Gomérez, Granada
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 12:03:04
Looking back at the Gate of the Pomegranates, Cuesta de Gomérez, Granada
Wednesday 6 September 2017 — 12:49:36
Bocatería Oh La La, Plaza Nueva 2, 18010 Granada
The way back to the hotel was almost a straight line south-west with a short left turn at the end, and we walked the just-over-¾-mile distance there. “I was looking for a hairdresser’s — again!”
Janet recalled. “The ones we saw were closed.” We withdrew some money at an
ATM. At some point we bought postcards and stamps. From time to time on this holiday, we passed yellow pillar boxes with
CORREOS in dark blue capital letters written upwards on them; but now, when I was about to need one, I didn’t see any. I went back up to the hotel room, because my feet were sore, while
Janet continued her search for a hairdresser. “I found one not far away,” she wrote, “that appeared to be closed between 2pm and 4.30pm — it was 2.30pm — so, return later?! Back at the hotel,” she continued, “[John] was asleep on the bed. I did some packing…
etc.” I was awake before 4.15pm, though, because I made this note: “Looked up Spanish postage stamp issues (16:15–16:20), but couldn’t determine whether the ones we’d got with the postcards were valid ones.” Manuel had warned us that if we were sold stamps with postcards they might not be ones recognised by
Correos, the Spanish national postal service. I wrote the postcards, one to Chris and one to my Mum.
[Wednesday 6 September 2017
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