[2018]
[Sunday
16 October 2018]
Lisbon, Oporto and the Douro Valley
Lisboa Plaza — Visit to Sintra
- Day 2
This morning we will drive to the lovely town of Sintra, famous for both its Royal Palace in the town, and the Pena Palace, perched on the hillside. We will include the entrance to the Royal Palace, for you to explore at your own pace, and there will be time for a leisurely lunch. If you would like to also visit the Pena Palace, there is a regular bus and a tram to take you up to the Palace (total return cost is €7). We will spend roughly four hours in Sintra and it is easy to come back to Lisbon by train if you would like to stay longer. The rest of the day is free for you to explore.
Woke up a little before 7am and switched my alarm clock off. Did some diary update on the computer, before
Janet got up and used the bathroom. She wrote: “A bad night. I had very little sleep. Tossed and turned. Pooh! Up,
ca.7.30am.” I showered after Janet vacated the bathroom. We went down for breakfast. I had orange juice and corn flakes, then bacon with tiny boiled sausages, then some coffee from a machine. We returned to the room for our stuff, then walked the short distance to the avenue where the coach was waiting. We were there in time for the scheduled 9am departure, and sat in the seats assigned to us for the day; but there was a slight delay, and we set out at
ca.9.15am.[i] The journey west to Sintra was a short one, only 18 miles and taking less than ½-hour. We passed an 18th century aqueduct to the west of the city on our way out of Lisbon. The itinerary that Paul had posted in the hotel said, “Return at 2.30/3.00pm approx.”; but today, he told us, according to what I scribbled in my notepad: “Leaving 2pm.” I also scribbled “Tivoli Hotel, Monserrate [restaurant]”; but I forgot all about this later when we went for lunch. The coach parked a short distance to the east of the Sintra town centre, and the group walked together as far as the National Palace. Within the four-arched portico of the palace was a long queue of visitors, lined up from the staircase leading up into the palace, doubling back within the portico and ending on the entrance steps.
- [i] I can’t remember whether this was because a couple, whom we quickly opined to be rather dopey, was late. He looked like actor Steve Martin, especially in the latter’s guise as unfeasibly long-nosed C. D. Bales in the 1987 romantic comedy movie
Roxanne.
Monday 17 September 2018 — 10:14:46
Looking north: Sintra National Palace
Monday 17 September 2018 — 10:17:32
Looking south towards the Castle of the Moors
Monday 17 September 2018 — 10:17:54
Castle of the Moors
Monday 17 September 2018 — 10:23:04
Castle of the Moors
Paul issued entry tickets to each of us.
The question then was: Shall we join the queue, or come back later? We decided on the former. The queue seemed to be stationary for a long time — officials were letting people through the barrier at the foot of the stairs only so many at a time. As I waited and kept our place,
Janet went to the ticket office, and came back with a folded, A3-size, comprehensive-looking guide-sheet.
Sintra National Palace
(Click to enlarge)
Sintra National Palace
(Click to enlarge)
Janet wrote: “We… had to queue for over half an hour before we got inside”; but the photographic evidence here shows that it was
ca.20 minutes (10:23–10:43). “It was all nicely signposted with explanations of each room we went in — also signs showing us which way to go.” The following photos with their captions tell their own story, so it’s unnecessary for me to write anything else. By looking at them and comparing them with the guide-sheet, one can usually tell where one is. Some of the names were different on the sign-boards from on the guide-sheet, so I’ve given both in the captions below.
Monday 17 September 2018 — 10:43:14
Looking back at those waiting in the entrance of Sintra National Palace
Monday 17 September 2018 — 10:43:22
Entering Sintra National Palace
Monday 17 September 2018 — 10:43:50
Sintra National Palace — up a spiral staircase
Monday 17 September 2018 — 10:44:42
Sintra National Palace — up a spiral staircase
Monday 17 September 2018 — 10:45:00
Sintra National Palace — about to pass through the “Archers’ Room”
Monday 17 September 2018 — 10:45:44
“Halberdiers’ Hall” (or “Archers’ Room”)
Monday 17 September 2018 — 10:45:56
“Halberdiers’ Hall” (or “Archers’ Room”)
Monday 17 September 2018 — 10:46:28
“Swan Hall”
Monday 17 September 2018 — 10:46:52
“Swan Hall”
Monday 17 September 2018 — 10:47:46
“Swan Hall”
Monday 17 September 2018 — 10:50:26
“Swan Hall”
Monday 17 September 2018 — 10:50:46
“Swan Hall”
Monday 17 September 2018 — 10:52:16
“Central Patio”
Monday 17 September 2018 — 10:52:44
“Central Patio”
Monday 17 September 2018 — 10:52:56
“Central Patio”
Monday 17 September 2018 — 10:55:58
“The Magpie Room”
Monday 17 September 2018 — 10:54:08
“The Magpie Room”
Monday 17 September 2018 — 10:54:34
“The Magpie Room”
Monday 17 September 2018 — 10:55:02
“The Magpie Room”
Monday 17 September 2018 — 10:55:12
“The Magpie Room”
Monday 17 September 2018 — 10:57:16
Leaving “The Magpie Room”
Monday 17 September 2018 — 10:59:26
“Bedchamber of King Sebastian”
Monday 17 September 2018 — 10:58:18
“Bedchamber of King Sebastian”
Monday 17 September 2018 — 10:58:48
“Bedchamber of King Sebastian”
Monday 17 September 2018 — 10:59:02
“Bedchamber of King Sebastian”
Monday 17 September 2018 — 11:01:04
“Mermaid Room”
Monday 17 September 2018 — 11:01:16
“Mermaid Room”
Monday 17 September 2018 — 11:01:24
“Mermaid Room”
Monday 17 September 2018 — 11:01:50
Entering the “Julius Caesar Room”
Monday 17 September 2018 — 11:03:04
“Julius Caesar Room”
Monday 17 September 2018 — 11:02:14
“Julius Caesar Room”
Monday 17 September 2018 — 11:02:52
“Julius Caesar Room”
Monday 17 September 2018 — 11:03:18
Entrance to the “Crown Chamber”
Monday 17 September 2018 — 11:04:02
“Crown Chamber”
Monday 17 September 2018 — 11:04:32
“Crown Chamber”
Monday 17 September 2018 — 11:05:04
“Crown Chamber”
Monday 17 September 2018 — 11:05:50
“Diana’s Patio”
Monday 17 September 2018 — 11:06:12
“Galleon Room”, seen from “Diana’s Patio”
Monday 17 September 2018 — 11:07:02
Fountain in “Diana’s Patio”
Monday 17 September 2018 — 11:07:20
“Galleon Room”
Monday 17 September 2018 — 11:08:00
“Galleon Room”
Monday 17 September 2018 — 11:08:46
“Galleon Room”
Monday 17 September 2018 — 11:09:26
“Galleon Room”
Monday 17 September 2018 — 11:10:08
“Galleon Room”
Monday 17 September 2018 — 11:12:16
Leaving the “Galleon Room” to head for the “Blazons Hall” (or “Heraldry Room”)
Monday 17 September 2018 — 11:12:56
On the way to the “Blazons Hall” (or “Heraldry Room”)
Monday 17 September 2018 — 11:13:32
On the way to the “Blazons Hall” (or “Heraldry Room”)
Monday 17 September 2018 — 11:14:14
On the way to the “Blazons Hall” (or “Heraldry Room”)
Monday 17 September 2018 — 11:14:26
On the way to the “Blazons Hall” (or “Heraldry Room”)
Monday 17 September 2018 — 11:14:42
On the way to the “Blazons Hall” (or “Heraldry Room”)
Monday 17 September 2018 — 11:15:10
Corridor of the “Blazons Hall” (or “Heraldry Room”)
Monday 17 September 2018 — 11:21:34
“Blazons Hall”
Monday 17 September 2018 — 11:16:54
“Blazons Hall” (or “Heraldry Room”)
Monday 17 September 2018 — 11:17:10
“Blazons Hall” (or “Heraldry Room”)
Monday 17 September 2018 — 11:17:20
“Blazons Hall” (or “Heraldry Room”)
Monday 17 September 2018 — 11:18:32
“Blazons Hall” (or “Heraldry Room”)
Monday 17 September 2018 — 11:18:56
“Blazons Hall” (or “Heraldry Room”)
Monday 17 September 2018 — 11:19:08
“Blazons Hall” (or “Heraldry Room”)
Monday 17 September 2018 — 11:19:54
View from one of the windows of the “Blazons Hall”
Monday 17 September 2018 — 11:20:38
“Blazons Hall” (or “Heraldry Room”)
Monday 17 September 2018 — 11:22:52
“Blazons Hall” (or “Heraldry Room”)
Monday 17 September 2018 — 11:23:30
Corridor of the “Blazons Hall” (or “Heraldry Room”)
Monday 17 September 2018 — 11:24:00
Heading for the “Prison Room of King Afonso IV”
Monday 17 September 2018 — 11:24:52
“Bedchamber-prison of Afonso VI” (called “Prison Room of King Afonso IV” on the guide-sheet)
Monday 17 September 2018 — 11:25:12
“Bedchamber-prison of Afonso VI” (called “Prison Room of King Afonso IV” on the guide-sheet)
Monday 17 September 2018 — 11:25:20
“Bedchamber-prison of Afonso VI”
Monday 17 September 2018 — 11:26:02
“Chinese Room” or “Pagoda Room”
Monday 17 September 2018 — 11:28:34
“Chinese Room” or “Pagoda Room”
Monday 17 September 2018 — 11:28:58
“Chinese Room” or “Pagoda Room”
Monday 17 September 2018 — 11:29:08
“Chinese Room” or “Pagoda Room”
Monday 17 September 2018 — 11:29:44
“Chinese Room” or “Pagoda Room”
Monday 17 September 2018 — 11:30:40
Leaving the “Chinese Room”
Monday 17 September 2018 — 11:31:14
A choice of ways:
(left:) “The Chapel Tribune”; (right:) the “Coffer Room” and “Greenhouse Courtyard”
Monday 17 September 2018 — 11:31:46
“The Chapel Tribune”
Monday 17 September 2018 — 11:32:10
“Palatine Chapel”
Monday 17 September 2018 — 11:32:56
“Palatine Chapel”, seen from “The Chapel Tribune”
Monday 17 September 2018 — 11:33:22
“Palatine Chapel”, seen from “The Chapel Tribune”
Monday 17 September 2018 — 11:33:38
Detail from the arch of the “Palatine Chapel”
Monday 17 September 2018 — 11:35:28
“Coffer Room”
Monday 17 September 2018 — 11:36:02
“Coffer Room”
Monday 17 September 2018 — 11:36:20
“Greenhouse Courtyard”
Monday 17 September 2018 — 11:36:50
Looking out over the “Greenhouse Courtyard”
Monday 17 September 2018 — 11:38:04
Proceeding to the “Arab Room”
Monday 17 September 2018 — 11:38:36
Proceeding to the “Arab Room”
Monday 17 September 2018 — 11:38:58
“Arab Room”
Monday 17 September 2018 — 11:40:30
“Arab Room”
Monday 17 September 2018 — 11:40:58
“Arab Room”
Monday 17 September 2018 — 11:41:38
“Arab Room”
Monday 17 September 2018 — 11:41:58
Leaving the “Arab Room”
Monday 17 September 2018 — 11:42:56
“Guest Room”
Monday 17 September 2018 — 11:42:20
“Guest Room”
Monday 17 September 2018 — 11:43:52
“Guest Room”
Monday 17 September 2018 — 11:44:04
“Guest Room”
Monday 17 September 2018 — 11:44:32
Leaving the “Guest Room”
Monday 17 September 2018 — 11:45:18
Adjacent to the “Guest Room”
Monday 17 September 2018 — 11:45:34
Descending to the “Kitchen”
Monday 17 September 2018 — 11:45:52
Descending to the “Kitchen”
Monday 17 September 2018 — 11:46:34
“Kitchen”
Monday 17 September 2018 — 11:46:46
“Kitchen”
Monday 17 September 2018 — 11:46:46 (detail)
“Kitchen”: Royal arms of Portugal and Savoy
Monday 17 September 2018 — 11:47:36
“Kitchen”: one of the two conical chimneys
Monday 17 September 2018 — 11:48:24
“Kitchen”
Monday 17 September 2018 — 11:48:34
“Kitchen”: the other of the two conical chimneys
Monday 17 September 2018 — 11:49:04
“Kitchen”
Monday 17 September 2018 — 11:49:44
“Kitchen”
Monday 17 September 2018 — 11:50:36
Ante-room of the “Manueline Hall”
Monday 17 September 2018 — 11:50:50
Ante-room of the “Manueline Hall”
Monday 17 September 2018 — 11:51:12
Ante-room of the “Manueline Hall”
Monday 17 September 2018 — 11:52:10
“Manueline Hall”
Monday 17 September 2018 — 11:52:38
“Manueline Hall”
Monday 17 September 2018 — 12:00:58
“Central Patio”
Monday 17 September 2018 — 12:01:32
“Central Patio”
Monday 17 September 2018 — 12:01:52
Twisted column in the centre of the “Central Patio”, displaying the coat of arms of King Manuel I
Monday 17 September 2018 — 12:03:50
“Grotto of the Baths” (called “Water Grotto” on the guide-sheet)
Monday 17 September 2018 — 12:02:42
“Grotto of the Baths”
Monday 17 September 2018 — 12:02:52
“Grotto of the Baths”
Monday 17 September 2018 — 12:03:04
“Grotto of the Baths”
Monday 17 September 2018 — 12:03:16
Looking out to the “Central Patio” from the “Grotto of the Baths”
Monday 17 September 2018 — 12:04:30
Entrance to the “Grotto of the Baths”
Monday 17 September 2018 — 12:05:18
Leaving Sintra National Palace
Our perambulation of the palace took us about an hour and twenty minutes, after which we didn’t have far to look for somewhere to go for lunch; going south-west from the central square, Praça da República, on Rua Gil Vicente, we immediately found on the left side a restaurant,
Paço Real, with an Italian menu. I had a pizza and a beer served in an unfeasibly tall glass; and
Janet asked them to do her a plain “salad of green leaves and sliced tomatoes”. Her account adds that it was “with three bread rolls, which were lovely. I was rather peeved, though, to be charged €12 for the salad. Bit much, really.”…
Monday 17 September 2018 — 12:41:52
Lunch at Restaurante Paço Real, Rua Gil Vicente 7, Sintra
A little farther along Rua Gil Vicente, on the right side, was St. Martin’s Church, which we visited.
Monday 17 September 2018 — 13:11:32
Igreja de São Martinho, Sintra
Monday 17 September 2018 — 13:12:32
Igreja de São Martinho, Sintra
Monday 17 September 2018 — 13:12:48
Igreja de São Martinho, Sintra
Monday 17 September 2018 — 13:14:08
Igreja de São Martinho, Sintra
Monday 17 September 2018 — 13:15:04
Igreja de São Martinho, Sintra
Monday 17 September 2018 — 13:15:32
Igreja de São Martinho, Sintra
Monday 17 September 2018 — 13:17:46
Igreja de São Martinho, Sintra: view from the south door
Monday 17 September 2018 — 13:17:58
Igreja de São Martinho, Sintra: view from the south door — Castle of the Moors
Monday 17 September 2018 — 13:18:40
“Parish Church of São Martinho de Sintra”
The church was built seemingly on the spur of a small hill, so the road round the back of it to the north was a lot lower than Rua Gil Vicente to its south. I had a brief walk around there to see if I could photograph the north side; but I kind of lost my bearings, and the bell-tower I photographed proved not to be of the church, but of the post office adjacent to it.
Monday 17 September 2018 — 13:21:40
View from Travessa da Pendoa, Sintra
Monday 17 September 2018 — 13:25:00
Post Office, Sintra
From there, we made our way slowly back to the rendezvous point, to where we’d been dropped off in Volta do
Duche. Between the vendors’ stalls displaying items such as handbags made of cork, in gaps between the trees lining the road, one could catch glimpses of the Town Hall and of the National Palace.
Monday 17 September 2018 — 13:39:20
Tower of the Town Hall from Volta do Duche, Sintra
Monday 17 September 2018 — 13:42:56
Sintra National Palace from Volta do Duche, Sintra
Paul had warned us that it might be cool up in the hills on which Sintra stood, but it was in fact very hot and sunny. The coach arrived a little after 2pm. We passed under the 18th century Águas Livres Aqueduct on the way back into Lisbon.
Monday 17 September 2018 — 14:33:32
Águas Livres Aqueduct, Lisbon
Monday 17 September 2018 — 14:35:20
Águas Livres Aqueduct, Lisbon
Monday 17 September 2018 — 14:35:40
Águas Livres Aqueduct, Lisbon
Just off from the hotel lobby was a lounge with coffee available, also water in glass dispensers, one containing sprigs of mint, and another containing sliced oranges. I had a glass of minted water, and
Janet had a decaffeinated coffee. She tried it black, and found it palatable. We sat and watched the TV, which was showing the
BBC World News, before returning to our room. After that we went out.
Janet wanted to find a hairdresser that she could visit tomorrow. We found one not far from the hotel in Avenida da Liberdade; she went in, then shortly afterwards came out with an appointment for tomorrow; it would cost her €25. We found an ATM and withdrew €200. We went back to the hotel room to deposit this extra cash in the safe. I checked e-mail accounts (16:24) and looked up a couple of Portuguese words using
Google Translate (16:26). Then we went again to the Ribadouro bar on Avenida da Liberdade that we’d been to yesterday.
Monday 17 September 2018 — 16:54:30
Ribadouro bar
I had a beer and Janet two Pepsi Max.
Monday 17 September 2018 — 17:36:42
Ribadouro bar
Monday 17 September 2018 — 17:36:42 (detail)
Janet chafed at me a bit when I wanted to go to see and photograph the monument of the Marquês de Pombal at the northern end of Avenida da Liberdade, especially when we got there and I wanted to go all the way around it; it was very busy with vehicular traffic and she thought it would take too long to cross all the roads leading in and out of the large traffic circle around the monument. In the event, it only took some ten minutes to get there, and a further ten to get around it. I took a photo of the whole monument and three more detailed views, at each of the four points at which I stopped while going around it. The “Marquês de Pombal”, Sebastião José de Carvalho e Melo, was the
de facto ruler of Portugal, notable for his competent leadership after the 1755 Lisbon earthquake, immediately taking upon himself the task of rebuilding the city, saying, “What now? We bury the dead and heal the living.”
Monday 17 September 2018 — 17:48:16
Marquês de Pombal monument
Monday 17 September 2018 — 17:48:16 (detail)
Edward VII Park beyond the Marquês de Pombal monument
Monday 17 September 2018 — 17:48:34
Marquês de Pombal monument
Monday 17 September 2018 — 17:48:44
Marquês de Pombal monument
Monday 17 September 2018 — 17:48:54
Marquês de Pombal monument
Monday 17 September 2018 — 17:51:26
Marquês de Pombal monument
Monday 17 September 2018 — 17:51:38
Marquês de Pombal monument
Monday 17 September 2018 — 17:51:48
Marquês de Pombal monument
Monday 17 September 2018 — 17:51:56
Marquês de Pombal monument
Monday 17 September 2018 — 17:54:26
Marquês de Pombal monument
Monday 17 September 2018 — 17:54:38
Marquês de Pombal monument
Monday 17 September 2018 — 17:54:46
Marquês de Pombal monument
Monday 17 September 2018 — 17:54:54
Marquês de Pombal monument
Monday 17 September 2018 — 17:57:28
Marquês de Pombal monument
Monday 17 September 2018 — 17:58:20
Marquês de Pombal monument
Monday 17 September 2018 — 17:58:28
Marquês de Pombal monument
Monday 17 September 2018 — 17:58:36
Marquês de Pombal monument
On the way back, I noticed something I hadn’t seen before, which hopefully before too long will become commonplace everywhere: an electric vehicle plugged into a street-side charging point.
Monday 17 September 2018 — 18:08:42
Charging point for electric automobiles in Avenida da Liberdade
Monday 17 September 2018 — 18:08:42 (detail)
Charging point for electric automobiles in Avenida da Liberdade
I tried to take photos of the Great War memorial near the hotel, but the sun was too low and spoiled the view. Back in the hotel room,
Janet updated her journal. Transferred 160 photos from the camera to the WD Elements
HDD (18:28–18:35). While that was in progress, I shaved; because I’d shaved yesterday evening, I hadn’t done so this morning. Viewed the photos with
Windows Photo Viewer, and rotated 35 that needed it (18:44–18:51). Looked up more Portuguese words in
Google Translate (18:58–18:59). Then we set out to go again to Restaurante A Gina. Once again, we were presented with a basket of bread slices and a board with a line of sliced
chouriço, one of slices of that robust-flavoured Queijo de Nisa, and one of
presunto. On one of the two occasions we were there, we were charged for it, on the other we weren’t; we hadn’t asked for it on either occasion, though our consumption of it could be taken as consent to it. I ate most of it;
Janet just had one piece of cheese and a couple of the bread slices. She was served with a steak that she described as “enormous”, with aioli, rice, boiled potatoes, broccoli and salad. “Cooked perfectly,” she commented, meaning medium on the scale of rare to well done, “[though there was] too much salt [added], really — and it was the best one I’d had in a while. Lovely and tender. Wished I’d not had the bread. I ate most of the broccoli and the salad bits, a smidge of potato, and about ¾ of the steak. What a waste! [John] had a ½-bottle of wine (I had a
Coke Zero) and liver with chips. Again, [it was] a huge portion that defeated him.” It was cooked in typical fashion with quite a lot of oil and garlic. The waiter suggested mopping it up with the remaining bread, but I couldn’t eat another bite. I did have an
americano coffee. Can’t remember what they called that in Portugal; they didn’t use the term “americano” for an
espresso with added hot water. After a brief return to the hotel room, we went out again, and I had another attempt at photographing the war memorial — obviously, at this hour, uncompromised by the sun!
Monday 17 September 2018 — 20:18:34
Monument to the fallen in the Great War, Avenida da Liberdade
Monday 17 September 2018 — 20:19:16
Monument to the fallen in the Great War, Avenida da Liberdade
Monday 17 September 2018 — 20:19:58
Monument to the fallen in the Great War, Avenida da Liberdade
Monday 17 September 2018 — 20:20:46
Monument to the fallen in the Great War, Avenida da Liberdade
We had a short walk along the avenue and back. It wasn’t cold, but there was a bit of a breeze.
Monday 17 September 2018 — 20:29:38
Avenida da Liberdade
Janet had a shower back in the hotel room. I transferred the additional five photos from the camera to the
WD Elements HDD (21:04).… We were both in bed, ca.9.45pm.
[Tuesday
18 September 2018]
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