[2019]
Trip to Beverley
…There has been much rain recently, but today the weather was fine if cold.
Janet and I got a №9 bus to the Riverhead Exchange (boarded, 08:38)…, then got a №250 “Humber Flyer” to Hull (boarded, 09:10). There was fog en route, especially over the Humber, where the tops of the piers of the Humber Bridge could not be seen. On arrival in Hull, we found a bus about to depart and boarded that
(ca.10.50am).[i] On that leg of the journey we noticed that parts of some fields were waterlogged, and the gardens of some houses we passed were flooded, though no houses themselves were.
- [i] I usually get the times from the tickets, but there weren’t any tickets issued on the
East Yorkshire buses, so I looked at my watch. The timing suggests that it was a №122 bus, but the route within Beverley (see the map, below, and cf. the narrative further below) suggests that it was a №246, for it went via Flemingate.
By bus to the start of Armstrong Way, then by foot over the footbridge, along Friar’s Lane, and around two sides of the Minster, before proceeding along Highgate
When the bus turned right from Flemingate, Beverley, into Armstrong Way, the Minster was visible to the left. We hadn’t arrived at Beverley bus station, but we were leaving the Minster behind; so when, just afterwards, the bus stopped at a bus stop, and remained there a minute or two, we got off. We went over the railway footbridge that was near by, and proceeded to the Minster, skirting around its south side and west end. Views of it in its entirety were restricted by surrounding buildings and, where there were no buildings, by trees.
Saturday 9 November 2019 — 11:30:12
Beverley Minster: south side and west end
Saturday 9 November 2019 — 11:31:06
Beverley Minster: west end
From the Minster to the Treasure House, via Highgate, Wednesday Market, Lord Roberts Road and Champney Road; then along Well Lane to Butcher Row, and the Angel and Caffè Nero; back to the Minster the same way
We went north along Highgate to Wednesday Market, then followed a “Tourist information” sign more or less westwards (I visited the “WC” in Lord Roberts Road), finding the indicated tourist information office in the Treasure House, Champney Road. There, we picked up a street map of Beverley—
—and a timetable of “Beverley to Hull buses”;—
—then we went a bit north of eastwards along Well Lane to Butcher Row to find somewhere to eat and drink. We looked at the menus displayed at a couple or so establishments, before deciding on
The Angel. We both had medium haddock and chips. Janet had mushy peas and I “garden” peas. I had a pint of
Theakston’s Best Bitter.
Saturday 9 November 2019 — 12:19:42
The Angel, 15 Butcher Row, Beverley
Saturday 9 November 2019 — 12:35:48
The Angel, 15 Butcher Row, Beverley
Janet wanted a dessert, so leaving there we went across the road to
Caffè Nero, where I had an americano coffee and Janet had a hot chocolate with a slice of “red velvet
cake”[ii] and a muffin with oatmeal and seeds.
- [ii] When we first had chicken in home-made char siu sauce, the red dye faded when it was cooked.
Janet’s previous knowledge of “red velvet cake”, that it remained a deep crimson colour despite being cooked, led her to seek out a red food dye that would retain its colour for when we had char siu chicken on
10 August 2019.
Saturday 9 November 2019 — 12:41:02
The Angel, 15 Butcher Row, Beverley
Saturday 9 November 2019 — 12:41:50
Caffè Nero, 22 Butcher Row, Beverley
Saturday 9 November 2019 — 12:44:44
Caffè Nero, 22 Butcher Row, Beverley
Because I’d failed to get a view of the Minister in its entirety, I wanted to go back to the Treasure House and ascend its tower, to try to get a better view of it from up there; so we retraced our route back there, mounting the stairs just within the entrance that wound around the lift shaft up to the windows ranged all around at the top.
Saturday 9 November 2019 — 13:20:20
Views from the tower of the Treasure House, Beverley: east-southeast — the Minster
I also looked in the direction of North Bar, past St. Mary’s Church, but couldn’t see it. That’s significant in being the putative reason for the design of the “enemy buses”, which I so hated. As I recalled to
Chris on
21 October 2011, about a journey in Hull in 1970:
- At the time you were living at 29 Park Grove, which was a short bus ride from the city centre.… The bus we got was an "enemy bus". I hated them because of their domed roofs. I thought they looked sinister and creepy, like some horrid distortion of a bus that one might see in a nightmare. (Wasn't there some brick-built arched bridge in the area they served that they were designed to fit under, as long as they went through it using the centre of the road?)
He replied on 26 October 2011:
- We probably got that "enemy bus" of the sort which so offended you, and which were operated by East Yorkshire, on Beverley Road. As far as I can remember, they were designed like that so that they could pass through the North Bar in Beverley.
Saturday 9 November 2019 — 13:21:08
Views from the tower of the Treasure House, Beverley: north-west —St. Mary’s Church
Saturday 9 November 2019 — 13:23:26
The Treasure House, Champney Road, Beverley
We continued to retrace our earlier route, back along Highgate to the Minster.
Saturday 9 November 2019 — 13:27:02
Proceeding along Highgate to Beverley Minster
Saturday 9 November 2019 — 13:28:48
Beverley Minster: north-west corner
Saturday 9 November 2019 — 13:29:54
“Welcome to Beverley Minster”
After we entered, a man greeted us, and gave us a leaflet.
He gave us, and a few others who’d followed us in, a brief history of the church. Given the harmonious appearance of the whole, it was hard to imagine that it was built in three stages from the 12th to the 15th centuries. There was a sign saying that entry was free, but that one needed a permit for £3 to take photographs. The man didn’t have them, but he pointed to a woman at the other end of the nave who had them, so we approached her to get one.
Saturday 9 November 2019 — 13:39:06
Beverley Minster: nave, looking east
Saturday 9 November 2019 — 13:40:06
Beverley Minster: north aisle
There was a stone canopy between the nave and the south aisle filling the space between two of the columns, which reminded me of a corresponding feature in York Minster
(Sunday 22 September
2019, 12:52:40), though not of stone there.
Saturday 9 November 2019 — 13:41:02
Beverley Minster: south aisle
Saturday 9 November 2019 — 13:41:32
Beverley Minster: south aisle
Saturday 9 November 2019 — 13:43:04
Beverley Minster: pulpit
Saturday 9 November 2019 — 13:43:36
Beverley Minster: lectern
Saturday 9 November 2019 — 13:44:16
Beverley Minster: tomb of St. John of Beverley
Saturday 9 November 2019 — 13:44:30
Beverley Minster: organ
Saturday 9 November 2019 — 13:45:20
Beverley Minster: tomb of St. John of Beverley
As well as the transept, expected in a gothic-style church building, Beverley Minster has, like Lincoln Cathedral, an additional transept further east. I always think of the individual arms of a transept each as a “transept”, so in what I write below, there is “north transept” and “south transept”, and additionally “north-east transept” and south-east transept”. I’m used to seeing arcaded naves having clerestories and lower flanking aisles, but this was the first time I’d noticed the same feature in the north and south transepts. And the north-east and south-east transepts had a clerestory and arcade on the east side.
Saturday 9 November 2019 — 13:46:24
Beverley Minster: poppy exhibition for Remembrance Day in the west aisle of the north transept
Saturday 9 November 2019 — 13:47:50
Beverley Minster: north transept
Saturday 9 November 2019 — 13:48:38
Beverley Minster: south transept
Saturday 9 November 2019 — 13:51:50
Beverley Minster: model
Saturday 9 November 2019 — 13:52:12
Beverley Minster: model
Saturday 9 November 2019 — 13:52:40
Beverley Minster: model
Saturday 9 November 2019 — 13:53:16
Beverley Minster: model
Saturday 9 November 2019 — 13:54:38
Beverley Minster: war memorial chapels in the east aisle of the south transept
Saturday 9 November 2019 — 13:57:16
Beverley Minster: northern chapel in the east aisle of the south transept
Saturday 9 November 2019 — 13:56:46
Beverley Minster: middle chapel in the east aisle of the south transept
Saturday 9 November 2019 — 14:00:08
Beverley Minster: southern chapel in the east aisle of the south transept
Saturday 9 November 2019 — 13:58:32
Beverley Minster: looking for mice in the southern chapel in the east aisle of the south transept
Saturday 9 November 2019 — 14:02:36
Beverley Minster: organ and entrance to the choir
Saturday 9 November 2019 — 14:03:46
Beverley Minster: choir, looking east
Saturday 9 November 2019 — 14:05:18
Beverley Minster: choir, looking west
Saturday 9 November 2019 — 14:05:52
Beverley Minster: high altar
Saturday 9 November 2019 — 14:06:56
Beverley Minster: view from the north of the high altar through the Percy Canopy to the north-east transept
Saturday 9 November 2019 — 14:07:24
Beverley Minster: view of the south-east transept from the south of the high altar
Saturday 9 November 2019 — 14:08:20
Beverley Minster: south-east transept
Saturday 9 November 2019 — 14:08:30
Beverley Minster: south-east transept
Saturday 9 November 2019 — 14:09:10
Beverley Minster: view north from the aisle of the south-east transept
Saturday 9 November 2019 — 14:09:20
Beverley Minster: view into the choir from the south-east transept
Saturday 9 November 2019 — 14:09:54
Beverley Minster: retro-choir at the east end
Saturday 9 November 2019 — 14:09:54 (detail 1)
Beverley Minster: sand sculpture of St. John of Beverley
Saturday 9 November 2019 — 14:09:54 (detail 2)
Beverley Minster: two pilgrim figures sculpted from sheet copper
Saturday 9 November 2019 — 14:10:10
Beverley Minster: east window
Saturday 9 November 2019 — 14:10:30
Beverley Minster: east window and ceiling
Saturday 9 November 2019 — 14:12:22
Beverley Minster: retro-choir, looking west
Saturday 9 November 2019 — 14:13:46
Beverley Minster: chapel in the north-east corner
Saturday 9 November 2019 — 14:14:12
Beverley Minster: north-east transept
Saturday 9 November 2019 — 14:14:20
Beverley Minster: north-east transept
Saturday 9 November 2019 — 14:15:00
Beverley Minster: view past the high altar to the south-east transept
In the north choir-aisle are arcaded stairs either side of an arch, which originally led to the chapter house. After the dissolution of the monasteries, though, the Minster was reduced to the status of a parish church, and the chapter house, now unused, was demolished.
Saturday 9 November 2019 — 14:15:58
Beverley Minster: north choir-aisle, stairs formerly to the chapter house
Saturday 9 November 2019 — 14:17:32
Beverley Minster: north choir-aisle, spiral stair to the organ loft
I had a look in the Minster shop, which occupies the east aisle of the north transept.
Janet had already looked in there. If they’d had teddy bears, we’d have probably bought one as an additional pal for Kingston (from Hull Minster) and Eborius (from York Minster).
Saturday 9 November 2019 — 14:27:22
Beverley Minster: nave, looking west
Saturday 9 November 2019 — 14:28:52
Beverley Minster: font
I noticed the symbols of the Four Evangelists on the west doors before I looked up and saw the Evangelists themselves.
Saturday 9 November 2019 — 14:29:18
Beverley Minster: west doors
Saturday 9 November 2019 — 14:30:06
Beverley Minster: west doors and window
Saturday 9 November 2019 — 14:31:58
Beverley Minster: west window
From the Minster to the bus station, via Highgate, Wednesday Market, Butcher Row, Walkergate and New Walkergate; thence via Sow Hill Road, Ladygate and Hengate past St. Mary’s Church, and along North Bar Within, through North Bar to North Bar Without; then via North Bar Within, Saturday Market and the Market Cross, along Sow Hill Road to the bus station
Leaving there, we went first to satisfy ourselves as to the location of the bus station (on the corner of New Walkergate and Sow Hill Road), then to look at St. Mary’s Church (which we didn’t have time actually to visit) and the North Bar. Returning from there to the bus station, I also noticed the Market Cross.
Saturday 9 November 2019 — 14:34:10
About to proceed along Highgate, Beverley
Saturday 9 November 2019 — 14:39:46
About to bear right along Walkergate, Beverley
The flying buttresses against the south transept of St. Mary’s Church appeared to be later additions, presumably to prevent the end wall falling down.
Saturday 9 November 2019 — 14:47:38
St. Mary’s Church, Beverley, viewed from Hengate
Saturday 9 November 2019 — 14:50:26
St. Mary’s Church, Beverley, viewed from North Bar Within at the end of Hengate
Saturday 9 November 2019 — 14:52:52
North Bar, Beverley, viewed from “Within”
Saturday 9 November 2019 — 14:55:08
North Bar, Beverley, viewed from “Without”
Saturday 9 November 2019 — 14:55:26
North Bar, Beverley, viewed from “Without”
Saturday 9 November 2019 — 14:56:48
Buildings on North Bar Without, Beverley
Saturday 9 November 2019 — 14:57:06
Devil on the turret of 6–8 North Bar Without, Beverley
Saturday 9 November 2019 — 14:57:36
4 North Bar Without, Beverley, with a number of carved figures and emblems
Saturday 9 November 2019 — 14:57:46
North Bar, Beverley, viewed from “Without”
Saturday 9 November 2019 — 14:59:10
St. Mary’s Church, Beverley, viewed from North Bar Within
Saturday 9 November 2019 — 15:02:32
Market Cross, Saturday Market, Beverley
Saturday 9 November 2019 — 15:02:50
Beverley Minster, glimpsed from Saturday Market
In the market square, we used the ATM of a bank we found there, to save us from having to do the same in Grimsby. (We planned, as now usual on these excursions, to go to
Casper’s, which is cash-only.) As we arrived at the bus station, a №122 bus to “Hull Interchange” reversed out of its bay and went its way; but that was no problem, for there was another bus due in ¼-hour. And indeed, some ten minutes later
(ca.3.10pm), a №246 arrived, due to depart at 15:15.
Saturday 9 November 2019 — 15:08:44
At Beverley bus station, awaiting the 15:15 №246 to Hull Interchange
Within Hull the bus made slow progress because of traffic queues. We began to think, even so, that it might arrive at Hull Paragon Interchange just in time for us to get the earlier 15:55 №250 “Humber Flyer”. (Our plan had been to get the 17:00 one.) The bus waited at a traffic light, then crossed Ferensway from Brook Street into the bus station area, at 3.54pm on my watch. But it had to wait for buses reversing out of their bays before it could approach its own bay; and although we saw the №250 still in Bay 30 as we approached, by the time we alighted it had just gone. So we went for refreshments. I thought, “Lets go to somewhere that’s not part of a chain”; so we went to the
London Way Café on the far (i.e. south) side of the station. It serves
Lavazza coffee, I found, which I like.
Saturday 9 November 2019 — 16:15:44
London Way Café, 1 Hull Paragon Interchange, Ferensway, Hull
Then we went back to Bay 30 for the 17:00 №250 “Humber Flyer” to Grimsby (boarded, 16:56). I didn’t note our arrival time in Grimsby, but assume it was the scheduled 18:36 or a few minutes earlier. We went to the convenience store on the corner of Town Hall Street, as usual, for a bottle of beer for me. There were no 660ml bottles of
San Miguel, only Carlsberg Export. At Casper’s, we were asked to wait because they were dealing with a lot of orders (I think the bulk of their trade is in take-away and delivered food). And service was unusually slow when we were seated. The
Carlsberg Export was a bit like drinking soda water, even given its premium-beer 4.8% a.b.v. strength; so their 1973–2011 tagline needs to be altered to “probably the worst lager in the world”! I had fettuccine Bolognese (I didn’t have the “Arrabbiata” this time, because even though I asked them to “go easy on the chillis” last time it was still a bit fiery).
Janet had her usual fusilli with chicken, with a tomato sauce substituting the listed creamy one. She also had a dessert. The next bus, we determined by walking along the stands opposite
Casper’s, would be a №10 in “12min” (boarded, 20:08).…
[2019]
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