John Edward Cooper’s Notes

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Saturday 24 July 2021

[2021]
[Friday 23 July 2021]

Lee Wood Hotel, Buxton
Haddon Hall
16:30 Poole’s Cavern


…Janet (who was suffering from her “first night away from home insomnia”)… wrote: “I may have slept about ½-hour! It was light at ca.5am. I heard jackdaws. I got up at 7am.” (There were many, many jackdaws in Buxton and the surrounding country.) …I shaved and showered after Janet vacated the bathroom.…
 These are the jottings I’d previously made for the day.




I’d ascertained that Haddon Hall’s opening hours were 10:30–17:00, and that breakfast at the hotel started at 8am at weekends (and specifically 8am today, Saturday). There’d be a TransPeak bus at 09:33 outside the railway station, which would get us to Haddon Hall (including walking from the bus stop) at 10:26. So we’d be able to get there at its opening time. The latest bus that would get us back in time for our Peak’s Cavern booking would be at 14:54, but there would be earlier ones an hour or two hours before then.
 We went to the “greenhouse” for breakfast, ca.8.25am. I had a substantial breakfast — too substantial, it proved to be; and I cut back on subsequent days — Rice Krispies; orange juice (or was it tomato juice? I had tomato juice on one of the mornings); bacon, sausages and baked beans; toast; and coffee.
 We set off for the bus stop ca.9.15am. We found our way this time without mishap. I’d printed maps of the start and end of the journey as they appeared in Google Maps:



“Best Western Plus Buxton Lee Wood Hotel to Haddon, Hall, Bakewell” © 2021 Google
[click on image to enlarge]


“Best Western Plus Buxton Lee Wood Hotel to Haddon, Hall, Bakewell” © 2021 Google
[click on image to enlarge]

And I’d printed a section of the Ordnance Survey map from Bing Maps, showing Buxton at the top left, and Haddon Hall at the bottom right.


© 2021 Microsoft
[click on image to enlarge]

The bus stop, indicated on the map, was on the south side of the road. I felt some unease about this, because I thought that the bus stop on the other side of the road ought to be the one that served a route eastwards, the direction more or less in which Haddon Hall lay. So I went across the road to check that bus stop; but I found that the timetable there for TransPeak buses had Derby at the top and Buxton at the bottom, whereas the bus stop to which we’d been directed had Buxton at the top and Derby at the bottom. So that convinced me that we’d been rightly guided by Google Maps.
 The single-deck bus came, and we boarded, using our bus passes. Janet commented: “I couldn’t believe how cold it was — and then the bus was draughty. I was chilled to the bone, and still had earache [from the cold] when we arrived at Haddon Hall.”
 The bus turned left at the roundabout (called “Cavendish Circus” on one map) and proceeded in a southerly direction along the A515, turning right off that road and continuing south through a village on the outskirts of Buxton called Harpur Hill. It then rejoined the A515 briefly before turning left, to take the A5270 road to the A6, after which we headed eastwards, later south-eastwards. A noticeable feature of the landscape was the dry-stone walls bounding the fields everywhere. The bus turned left off the A6 to serve the picturesque village of Ashford-in-the-Water. After rejoining the A6 we went through the market town of Bakewell, before getting off at the “Haddon Hall” bus stop. The driver had asked us if we knew where the bus stop was; and when we said not, he’d offered to tell us when we got there. The only errors of guidance of Google Maps were trivial ones at the end of the journey, for we didn’t have to cross the road then cross back again to get to the gatehouse; and after crossing the bridge over the River Wye, we were able to proceed directly to the café which had been the stables, and thence to the main entrance, without walking the circuitous route shown.




To the right of the path, just after passing through the gatehouse,—


Saturday 24 July 2021 10:20:48
Haddon Hall: Gatehouse

—we found the ticket office, a booth with a serving-hatch. Although it wasn’t yet 10.30am, the opening time according to the Haddon Hall website, a very friendly Welsh woman issued our tickets (£20.50 each, even at a concessionary rate) and chatted to us.


Tickets, bearing the crests of the Vernon and Manners families, owners of Haddon Hall

We also bought a guide- and souvenir book (good value at £7.50).



The three-arched stone bridge over the River Wye, which we crossed to get to Haddon Hall, had triangular cutwaters the full height of the bridge; and the low parapet followed the outline of them, so pedestrians had the means of retreat from oncoming vehicles (carts and coaches in 1663, when the bridge was built). This all reminded me of the bridge over the Wye at Bakewell (cf. The motorbike and sidecar, par.28 and Monday 26 July 2021).


Saturday 24 July 2021 10:28:52
Crossing the River Wye to Haddon Hall (cf. 12:38:04)


Saturday 24 July 2021 10:28:52 (detail 1)
The former stables, now the Haddon Hall visitors’ restaurant


Saturday 24 July 2021 10:28:52 (detail 2)
Haddon Hall


Saturday 24 July 2021 10:33:30
Topiary in the garden next door to the restaurant

Ahead of us were the former stables, now housing toilets downstairs inside its central arched doorway, and a café/restaurant upstairs, accessed by stairs at the right end. There was a sign on the door of the gents’ toilet, advising one to leave the door open because there was a swallows’ nest within. Indeed, I saw swallows flit in and out of the arched doorway. We went upstairs for coffee before going up to the entrance of the hall in its North-West Tower — if “coffee” one could call it: Janet had decaffeinated, which she said tasted like sweetened hot water, and I had an americano with an extra shot, which was nevertheless weak, for which we were robbed of £9.05. We had considered going back there for lunch, but this changed our minds completely against that.


Saturday 24 July 2021 10:34:24
Haddon Hall: the former stables; and the North-West Tower


Saturday 24 July 2021 11:02:04
The former stables: steps up to the restaurant


Saturday 24 July 2021 11:02:40
Haddon Hall: North-West Tower


Saturday 24 July 2021 11:05:22
Horse-mounting steps


Haddon Hall plan, from S. Rayner, The History and Antiquities of Haddon Hall (Derby: Robert Moseley, 1836, 1837).
[click on image to enlarge]


Some of the names of rooms and locations, which I’ve used below, are different from the ones used in this plan. Some of the terminology I’ve used is taken from the guide- and souvenir book that we bought; other terminology is what I have devised myself to describe what I saw. One difference is insignificant, i.e. Lower Court in the plan; Lower Courtyard, below. Others are as follows:
The Parlour (below) is called the Dining Room in the plan (which is also given as an alternative name in the guidebook).
The Great Chamber (below) is not represented in the plan, but is situated upstairs above the Parlour/Dining Room.
The Long Gallery (below) is called the Banquetting [sic] Gallery in the plan.
What I’ve called an “upper garden” (below) is not named in the plan, unless it be considered part of Dorothy Vernon’s Walk.
What I’ve called a “lower garden” (below) is confusingly named Upper Garden in the plan.
What I’ve called a “lower terrace” (below) is named Lower Garden in the plan.
In “12:01:42” (below) the flights of steps which I’ve not named, are called Steps Leading to Ancient Bridge in the plan.


Saturday 24 July 2021 11:08:16
Haddon Hall: Lower Courtyard


Saturday 24 July 2021 11:08:34
Haddon Hall: Lower Courtyard


Saturday 24 July 2021 11:08:34 (detail)
Detail showing the entrance to King John’s Wall (cf. 12:08:54 and 12:10:24)
[click on image to enlarge]


Saturday 24 July 2021 11:11:44
Haddon Hall: corner of the Lower Courtyard…


Saturday 24 July 2021 11:11:44 (detail)
…showing two ominous-looking carved figures


Saturday 24 July 2021 11:14:38
Haddon Hall: Kitchen


Saturday 24 July 2021 11:15:08
Haddon Hall: Kitchen


Saturday 24 July 2021 11:17:28
Large, leggy spider, letting itself down on a single thread in one of the doorways


Saturday 24 July 2021 11:18:14
Haddon Hall: Butchery


Saturday 24 July 2021 11:19:50
Haddon Hall: one of the rooms near the Kitchen


Saturday 24 July 2021 11:21:26
Haddon Hall: Banqueting Hall


Saturday 24 July 2021 11:21:58
Haddon Hall: Banqueting Hall


Saturday 24 July 2021 11:23:16
Haddon Hall: Banqueting Hall


Saturday 24 July 2021 11:24:38
Haddon Hall: Parlour


Saturday 24 July 2021 11:25:54
Haddon Hall: Parlour


Saturday 24 July 2021 11:27:04
Haddon Hall: Parlour, ceiling


Saturday 24 July 2021 11:27:36
Haddon Hall: Parlour, ceiling


Saturday 24 July 2021 11:30:20
Haddon Hall: Great Chamber


Saturday 24 July 2021 11:30:48
Haddon Hall: Great Chamber


Saturday 24 July 2021 11:31:06
Haddon Hall: Great Chamber


Saturday 24 July 2021 11:32:36
Haddon Hall: Great Chamber


Saturday 24 July 2021 11:33:00
Haddon Hall: room adjoining the Great Chamber

There was a wedding booked in the Long Gallery, but we were able to visit it before the party arrived.


Saturday 24 July 2021 11:34:24
Haddon Hall: Long Gallery


Saturday 24 July 2021 11:37:36
Haddon Hall: steps down to an upper garden


Saturday 24 July 2021 11:37:50
Haddon Hall: upper garden


Saturday 24 July 2021 11:39:10
Haddon Hall: upper garden


Saturday 24 July 2021 11:39:56
Haddon Hall: upper garden


Saturday 24 July 2021 11:41:20
Haddon Hall: steps down to a lower garden


Saturday 24 July 2021 11:43:06
Haddon Hall: views of the hall from the lower garden


Saturday 24 July 2021 11:43:20
Haddon Hall: views of the hall from the lower garden


Saturday 24 July 2021 11:44:22
Haddon Hall: views of the hall from the lower garden


Saturday 24 July 2021 11:57:10
Haddon Hall: view down to a lower terrace


Saturday 24 July 2021 12:00:08
Haddon Hall: Chapel, seen from the lowest level


Saturday 24 July 2021 12:01:42
Haddon Hall: view of the hall from the lowest level


Saturday 24 July 2021 12:02:22
River Wye


Saturday 24 July 2021 12:04:08
Dorothy Vernon’s Bridge crossing the River Wye

We wondered whether and how we could visit the Chapel, which we’d just seen from the outside; so we found our way back to the Lower Courtyard, to be told by an attendant there that it was closed for restoration work. She mentioned that outside, on the main window, one could see centuries-old graffiti scratched on the glass.
 Earlier, I’d seen a sign outside a door, “King John’s Wall” (11:08:34); so I went through that door briefly.



Saturday 24 July 2021 12:08:54
King John’s Wall (cf. 11:08:34)


Saturday 24 July 2021 12:10:24
King John’s Wall (cf. 11:08:34)

There were toilets off the Lower Courtyard, so we availed ourselves of them. They were vacant when we entered; but when we came out there were long queues of people waiting for them, for the wedding party had arrived. We made our way back to the outside of the chapel.


Saturday 24 July 2021 12:15:08
Haddon Hall: Chapel


Saturday 24 July 2021 12:15:30
Haddon Hall: graffiti on the Chapel window


Saturday 24 July 2021 12:17:44
Haddon Hall: view through the Chapel window


Saturday 24 July 2021 12:18:02
Haddon Hall: view through the Chapel window at the fresco-secco work


Saturday 24 July 2021 12:22:50
Haddon Hall: terraces

Haddon Hall fairly closely matched my recollections of it from childhood (The motorbike and sidecar, par.29)—
One year we visited the large stately home Chatsworth House…. The following year… we visited the mediaeval and Tudor country house Haddon Hall by the River Wye, one of the seats of the Duke of Rutland. I liked this better, because it seemed altogether more homely and habitable, and less museum- or art gallery-like, than Chatsworth.

—though the last clause of this statement wouldn’t be tested till the day after tomorrow. Ignoring the rip-off (or possibly, error) in the restaurant, we thoroughly enjoyed this visit. We decided that we’d catch the first of the buses back that I’d listed (“12:54”).


Saturday 24 July 2021 12:38:04
Bridge over the River Wye (cf. 10:28:52)


Saturday 24 July 2021 12:39:16
Haddon Hall: Gatehouse and ticket booth

At the bus stop there were some anxious moments when it was getting towards 1 o’clock, but the bus did come. “The sun had finally emerged and it was quite pleasant,” Janet observed: “certainly a lot warmer than earlier.” On the outskirts of Bakewell, I noticed a road going off to the right called “Agricultural Way”, and thought that was the sort of name that a totalitarian socialist state would use! I noticed that the bus went through Ashford-in-the-Water the same way as it had done on the outward journey, not in the opposite direction.
 Just to the south of Station Road, Buxton, where we’d caught the outward bus, we’d noticed a shopping centre; and getting off the bus, we found our way there. “We went to Waitrose,” Janet wrote, “as I wanted a bread roll to have with the two bananas I’d brought from home, for my lunch.” I felt quite weary traipsing round the supermarket. And the face mask was proving problematical: it kept being sucked in over the airway, making it hard to breathe. “We had intended going to the Buxton Tap House,” Janet continued, “as I fancied a pint of Pepsi Max.” The lure of Pepsi Max, then, outweighed her aversion to mounted dead animal heads! So we went past the Buxton Tap House, but got the impression that it was closing because of some contact with someone with COVID-19; so we decided to go back to the hotel. I felt better after a cup of instant coffee. “I made us a coffee,” Janet wrote, “then I had my bananas and bun.” Transferred 50 photos from the camera’s SD card to the WD Elements HDD (14:32–14:33). Opened them in Windows Photo Viewer, and rotated three that needed it (14:36–14:37). Checked my Gmail inbox (15:19): half a dozen Facebook notifications and two or three “spam” e-mails, all of which I deleted unread.
Ca.3.45pm, we set off for Poole’s Cavern, following the blue-dotted route on the map. This time, I was careful to go down the second “Park Road” off Park Road, the one signed “cul-de-sac”. In one instance of doubt, farther south, where some five roads met, we were guided to the correct way by a signpost saying “Poole’s Cavern”. The signage let us down finally, though (because there wasn’t any); but it was obvious from the map that we needed to take a last turn left.



“Best Western Plus Buxton Lee Wood Hotel to Poole’s Cavern & Buxton Country Park” © 2021 Google
[click on image to enlarge]

We had drinks in the café there. The server queried my request for an extra shot in the americano, which, she said, would already contain two shots; but in fact, it might have been adequate had I requested two extra shots! I presented the tickets I’d printed after booking the tour of the cavern some days ago, but the guy was just interested in noting a number or numbers printed there; he didn’t scan the barcode.



We were aware that within the cavern the temperature would be 7℃; but, in fact, with the walking and climbing steps, and the lack of wind, it didn’t feel that cold to me. The young guide was at turns factual and humorous. He told us that early tour guides would attempt to extort money out of visitors by threatening to extinguish the lights and leave them stranded in the dark. Poole’s Cavern is a natural limestone cave, forming an underground part of the River Wye. It’s named after an outlaw, who reputedly used the cave as a lair and a base to rob travellers in the fifteenth century; but archaeological evidence suggests that it was occupied from the Bronze Age.


Saturday 24 July 2021 16:32:18
Entering Poole’s Cavern


Saturday 24 July 2021 16:33:22
Poole’s Cavern


Saturday 24 July 2021 16:36:04
Poole’s Cavern


Saturday 24 July 2021 16:37:26
Poole’s Cavern


Saturday 24 July 2021 16:42:02
Poole’s Cavern


Saturday 24 July 2021 16:44:44
Poole’s Cavern


Saturday 24 July 2021 16:49:14
Poole’s Cavern: one of the original gas-lamps; and the “Flitch of Bacon” stalactite


Poole’s Cavern: one of the original gas-lamps; the “Flitch of Bacon” stalactite
Image from Peter Pedley Postcards


Poole’s Cavern
Image © Phil Sproson Photography


Saturday 24 July 2021 16:55:32
Poole’s Cavern


Saturday 24 July 2021 16:56:32
Poole’s Cavern: “poached egg” stalagmites


Saturday 24 July 2021 16:57:16
Poole’s Cavern: “poached egg” stalagmite


Saturday 24 July 2021 17:01:40
Poole’s Cavern: “Mary Queen of Scots Pillar”


Saturday 24 July 2021 17:01:58
Poole’s Cavern: “Mary Queen of Scots Pillar”


Saturday 24 July 2021 17:06:36
Poole’s Cavern


Saturday 24 July 2021 17:12:44
Poole’s Cavern

In The motorbike and sidecar, par.28 I recalled:

I remember the fact that we visited spa town and market town Buxton, probably more than once, but have no specific memories that I can relate. We probably visited the Pavilion Gardens; and given our liking for show caves, engendered by visiting the ones near Castleton, we may have gone to the extensive, multi-chambered Poole’s Cavern on the outskirts of the town. A memory of a guide turning out his light and plunging us into complete darkness for several seconds may come from here (if not here, then somewhere!).

And indeed, that happened today when we were all at the farthest extremity of the cave. Before we left, I bought a couple of postcards from the Poole’s Cavern shop.
 Janet would have preferred dinner at 5.30pm, as yesterday; but we didn’t know when we’d arrive back from Poole’s Cavern, so we’d booked it for 6.30pm. We’d been warned that service might be slow at that time, because they had a large booking for somebody’s 90th birthday celebration. Back at the hotel, I transferred 14 photos from the camera’s SD card to the WD Elements HDD (18:15). Opened them in Windows Photo Viewer, but none of them needed to be rotated. We went down for dinner, and were seated not in the “greenhouse” but in another room, which in fact I found more agreeable and cosy, with wood-panelled walls. I again had a glass of prosecco as aperativo, and had my remaining Rioja brought. “I had exactly the same as last night,” Janet wrote: “it was lovely, but the pork last night was tastier.” Again there was bread, but by this time it was warm not hot. As a starter I had “prosciutto and poached pear salad”. Actually, the former was indistinguishable from crispy streaky bacon. Then I had Thai green curry; and finally cheese, but I asked for bread instead of biscuits. I was a bit disappointed to receive bread slices rather than the types of bread offered earlier. I finished the Rioja.
 Because the demands on staff of the birthday party slowed their service to us, we didn’t get back to the room till after 8.30pm. A little after 9pm, while Janet was showering, etc., I decided that I’d do [something on the computer]; but when I tried to start the Samsung computer to do this, although the blue lights on its front edge lit up, nothing appeared on the screen. So I forced shutdown, and started again. Then, reportedly, “Your computer was unable to start”, so it started the process of “Startup Repair”. I was asked to agree to “System Restore”, to return the computer to an earlier point when it had worked correctly. “Attempting repairs” ran for a long time. The computer finally started normally ca.9.15pm. Before coming on holiday, I was using the computer with a wired internet connection, with the Wi-Fi disabled; but in preparation for using it while away, I’d enabled Wi-Fi. But now it was attempting to find a wired internet connection only. So I opened Device Manager, and re-enabled Wi-Fi. Anyway, I did finally manage to get [what I wanted to do]… done (to 22:09). By the time Janet had showered and washed her hair, done this and that, and written up her holiday journal, it was almost 11pm.… When we went to bed there were still the voices, voices, voices of the birthday party coming from the “greenhouse” situated below our window, but they didn’t last much longer. However, I also became aware of bump, bump, bump sounds from somewhere not far distant, as if the coprophagic scumbags 106 miles away still had the power to torment us! It didn’t continue long, thankfully. As far as I’m aware, things were quiet before midnight. I was too hot under the duvet, so I removed its white-cotton cover, and used that as a sheet.


[Sunday 25 July 2021]



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