[2021] [Friday 23 July 2021] Lee Wood Hotel, Buxton Haddon Hall 16:30 Poole’s Cavern …Janet (who was suffering from her “first night away from home insomnia”)… wrote: “I may have slept about ½-hour! It was light at ca.5am. I heard jackdaws. I got up at 7am.” (There were many, many jackdaws in Buxton and the surrounding country.) …I shaved and showered after Janet vacated the bathroom.… These are the jottings I’d previously made for the day. I’d ascertained that Haddon Hall’s opening hours were 10:30–17:00, and that breakfast at the hotel started at 8am at weekends (and specifically 8am today, Saturday). There’d be a TransPeak bus at 09:33 outside the railway station, which would get us to Haddon Hall (including walking from the bus stop) at 10:26. So we’d be able to get there at its opening time. The latest bus that would get us back in time for our Peak’s Cavern booking would be at 14:54, but there would be earlier ones an hour or two hours before then. We went to the “greenhouse” for breakfast, ca.8.25am. I had a substantial breakfast — too substantial, it proved to be; and I cut back on subsequent days — Rice Krispies; orange juice (or was it tomato juice? I had tomato juice on one of the mornings); bacon, sausages and baked beans; toast; and coffee. We set off for the bus stop ca.9.15am. We found our way this time without mishap. I’d printed maps of the start and end of the journey as they appeared in Google Maps: “Best Western Plus Buxton Lee Wood Hotel to Haddon, Hall, Bakewell” © 2021 Google [click on image to enlarge] “Best Western Plus Buxton Lee Wood Hotel to Haddon, Hall, Bakewell” © 2021 Google [click on image to enlarge] And I’d printed a section of the Ordnance Survey map from Bing Maps, showing Buxton at the top left, and Haddon Hall at the bottom right. © 2021 Microsoft [click on image to enlarge] The bus stop, indicated on the map, was on the south side of the road. I felt some unease about this, because I thought that the bus stop on the other side of the road ought to be the one that served a route eastwards, the direction more or less in which Haddon Hall lay. So I went across the road to check that bus stop; but I found that the timetable there for TransPeak buses had Derby at the top and Buxton at the bottom, whereas the bus stop to which we’d been directed had Buxton at the top and Derby at the bottom. So that convinced me that we’d been rightly guided by Google Maps. The single-deck bus came, and we boarded, using our bus passes. Janet commented: “I couldn’t believe how cold it was — and then the bus was draughty. I was chilled to the bone, and still had earache [from the cold] when we arrived at Haddon Hall.” The bus turned left at the roundabout (called “Cavendish Circus” on one map) and proceeded in a southerly direction along the A515, turning right off that road and continuing south through a village on the outskirts of Buxton called Harpur Hill. It then rejoined the A515 briefly before turning left, to take the A5270 road to the A6, after which we headed eastwards, later south-eastwards. A noticeable feature of the landscape was the dry-stone walls bounding the fields everywhere. The bus turned left off the A6 to serve the picturesque village of Ashford-in-the-Water. After rejoining the A6 we went through the market town of Bakewell, before getting off at the “Haddon Hall” bus stop. The driver had asked us if we knew where the bus stop was; and when we said not, he’d offered to tell us when we got there. The only errors of guidance of Google Maps were trivial ones at the end of the journey, for we didn’t have to cross the road then cross back again to get to the gatehouse; and after crossing the bridge over the River Wye, we were able to proceed directly to the café which had been the stables, and thence to the main entrance, without walking the circuitous route shown. To the right of the path, just after passing through the gatehouse,— Saturday 24 July 2021 10:20:48 Haddon Hall: Gatehouse —we found the ticket office, a booth with a serving-hatch. Although it wasn’t yet 10.30am, the opening time according to the Haddon Hall website, a very friendly Welsh woman issued our tickets (£20.50 each, even at a concessionary rate) and chatted to us. Tickets, bearing the crests of the Vernon and Manners families, owners of Haddon Hall We also bought a guide- and souvenir book (good value at £7.50). The three-arched stone bridge over the River Wye, which we crossed to get to Haddon Hall, had triangular cutwaters the full height of the bridge; and the low parapet followed the outline of them, so pedestrians had the means of retreat from oncoming vehicles (carts and coaches in 1663, when the bridge was built). This all reminded me of the bridge over the Wye at Bakewell (cf. The motorbike and sidecar, par.28 and Monday 26 July 2021). Saturday 24 July 2021 10:28:52 Crossing the River Wye to Haddon Hall (cf. 12:38:04) Saturday 24 July 2021 10:28:52 (detail 1) The former stables, now the Haddon Hall visitors’ restaurant Saturday 24 July 2021 10:28:52 (detail 2) Haddon Hall Saturday 24 July 2021 10:33:30 Topiary in the garden next door to the restaurant Ahead of us were the former stables, now housing toilets downstairs inside its central arched doorway, and a café/restaurant upstairs, accessed by stairs at the right end. There was a sign on the door of the gents’ toilet, advising one to leave the door open because there was a swallows’ nest within. Indeed, I saw swallows flit in and out of the arched doorway. We went upstairs for coffee before going up to the entrance of the hall in its North-West Tower — if “coffee” one could call it: Janet had decaffeinated, which she said tasted like sweetened hot water, and I had an americano with an extra shot, which was nevertheless weak, for which we were robbed of £9.05. We had considered going back there for lunch, but this changed our minds completely against that. Saturday 24 July 2021 10:34:24 Haddon Hall: the former stables; and the North-West Tower Saturday 24 July 2021 11:02:04 The former stables: steps up to the restaurant Saturday 24 July 2021 11:02:40 Haddon Hall: North-West Tower Saturday 24 July 2021 11:05:22 Horse-mounting steps Haddon Hall plan, from S. Rayner, The History and Antiquities of Haddon Hall (Derby: Robert Moseley, 1836, 1837). [click on image to enlarge] Some of the names of rooms and locations, which I’ve used below, are different from the ones used in this plan. Some of the terminology I’ve used is taken from the guide- and souvenir book that we bought; other terminology is what I have devised myself to describe what I saw. One difference is insignificant, i.e. Lower Court in the plan; Lower Courtyard, below. Others are as follows: The Parlour (below) is called the Dining Room in the plan (which is also given as an alternative name in the guidebook). The Great Chamber (below) is not represented in the plan, but is situated upstairs above the Parlour/Dining Room. The Long Gallery (below) is called the Banquetting [sic] Gallery in the plan. What I’ve called an “upper garden” (below) is not named in the plan, unless it be considered part of Dorothy Vernon’s Walk. What I’ve called a “lower garden” (below) is confusingly named Upper Garden in the plan. What I’ve called a “lower terrace” (below) is named Lower Garden in the plan. In “12:01:42” (below) the flights of steps which I’ve not named, are called Steps Leading to Ancient Bridge in the plan. Saturday 24 July 2021 11:08:16 Haddon Hall: Lower Courtyard Saturday 24 July 2021 11:08:34 Haddon Hall: Lower Courtyard Saturday 24 July 2021 11:08:34 (detail) Detail showing the entrance to King John’s Wall (cf. 12:08:54 and 12:10:24) [click on image to enlarge] Saturday 24 July 2021 11:11:44 Haddon Hall: corner of the Lower Courtyard… Saturday 24 July 2021 11:11:44 (detail) …showing two ominous-looking carved figures Saturday 24 July 2021 11:14:38 Haddon Hall: Kitchen Saturday 24 July 2021 11:15:08 Haddon Hall: Kitchen Saturday 24 July 2021 11:17:28 Large, leggy spider, letting itself down on a single thread in one of the doorways Saturday 24 July 2021 11:18:14 Haddon Hall: Butchery Saturday 24 July 2021 11:19:50 Haddon Hall: one of the rooms near the Kitchen Saturday 24 July 2021 11:21:26 Haddon Hall: Banqueting Hall Saturday 24 July 2021 11:21:58 Haddon Hall: Banqueting Hall Saturday 24 July 2021 11:23:16 Haddon Hall: Banqueting Hall Saturday 24 July 2021 11:24:38 Haddon Hall: Parlour Saturday 24 July 2021 11:25:54 Haddon Hall: Parlour Saturday 24 July 2021 11:27:04 Haddon Hall: Parlour, ceiling Saturday 24 July 2021 11:27:36 Haddon Hall: Parlour, ceiling Saturday 24 July 2021 11:30:20 Haddon Hall: Great Chamber Saturday 24 July 2021 11:30:48 Haddon Hall: Great Chamber Saturday 24 July 2021 11:31:06 Haddon Hall: Great Chamber Saturday 24 July 2021 11:32:36 Haddon Hall: Great Chamber Saturday 24 July 2021 11:33:00 Haddon Hall: room adjoining the Great Chamber There was a wedding booked in the Long Gallery, but we were able to visit it before the party arrived. Saturday 24 July 2021 11:34:24 Haddon Hall: Long Gallery Saturday 24 July 2021 11:37:36 Haddon Hall: steps down to an upper garden Saturday 24 July 2021 11:37:50 Haddon Hall: upper garden Saturday 24 July 2021 11:39:10 Haddon Hall: upper garden Saturday 24 July 2021 11:39:56 Haddon Hall: upper garden Saturday 24 July 2021 11:41:20 Haddon Hall: steps down to a lower garden Saturday 24 July 2021 11:43:06 Haddon Hall: views of the hall from the lower garden Saturday 24 July 2021 11:43:20 Haddon Hall: views of the hall from the lower garden Saturday 24 July 2021 11:44:22 Haddon Hall: views of the hall from the lower garden Saturday 24 July 2021 11:57:10 Haddon Hall: view down to a lower terrace Saturday 24 July 2021 12:00:08 Haddon Hall: Chapel, seen from the lowest level Saturday 24 July 2021 12:01:42 Haddon Hall: view of the hall from the lowest level Saturday 24 July 2021 12:02:22 River Wye Saturday 24 July 2021 12:04:08 Dorothy Vernon’s Bridge crossing the River Wye We wondered whether and how we could visit the Chapel, which we’d just seen from the outside; so we found our way back to the Lower Courtyard, to be told by an attendant there that it was closed for restoration work. She mentioned that outside, on the main window, one could see centuries-old graffiti scratched on the glass. Earlier, I’d seen a sign outside a door, “King John’s Wall” (11:08:34); so I went through that door briefly. Saturday 24 July 2021 12:08:54 King John’s Wall (cf. 11:08:34) Saturday 24 July 2021 12:10:24 King John’s Wall (cf. 11:08:34) There were toilets off the Lower Courtyard, so we availed ourselves of them. They were vacant when we entered; but when we came out there were long queues of people waiting for them, for the wedding party had arrived. We made our way back to the outside of the chapel. Saturday 24 July 2021 12:15:08 Haddon Hall: Chapel Saturday 24 July 2021 12:15:30 Haddon Hall: graffiti on the Chapel window Saturday 24 July 2021 12:17:44 Haddon Hall: view through the Chapel window Saturday 24 July 2021 12:18:02 Haddon Hall: view through the Chapel window at the fresco-secco work Saturday 24 July 2021 12:22:50 Haddon Hall: terraces Haddon Hall fairly closely matched my recollections of it from childhood (The motorbike and sidecar, par.29)—
—though the last clause of this statement wouldn’t be tested till
the day after
tomorrow. Ignoring the rip-off (or possibly, error) in the restaurant, we thoroughly enjoyed this visit. We decided that we’d catch the first of the buses back that I’d listed (“12:54”).
And indeed, that happened today when we were all at the farthest extremity of the cave. Before we left, I bought a couple of postcards from the Poole’s Cavern shop. |
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